Chrysler Sailors Forum

I've considered using this.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=80333

The Cap'n has made an executive decision and postponed the launch by one day, weather, Bloomsday and other issues. I just said, yes dear.

Hope to see other Chrysler sailors soon, if not Sunday, then deffinitely later.

Just an update, the launch date is now 5/5. I'm taking time off on the 4th to get her ready. The outboard ran great except fot needing a new starter solenoid, replacement on the way and to be modified to fit. This was the only thing that would make me miss that weekend. Still a lot to do on her. Hop...

That'll be me, Billy. I've done all the work on her that I can and after three years will finely get her wet again.

Based on your voltage readings you have used less then 20% of the battery capacity, probably closer to 12-15%.

Do NOT let the battery go below 10.75V or you may damage it. I have been building telecom battery chargers my whole carrer and that is the drop dead point for most LA (lead-acid) batterys.

Ditto the rudder bearring!

Glad to know it worked. I got caught up with a lot of other projects on the boat and had not gotten to the teflon yet.

My first Chrysler was a LS16. I tried to capsize it in 45-50 knots of wind, I was out there just for that reason, and I could not do it! The boat is so beamy (8' if I recall) and heavy (750 lbs?) that I could not get enough pressure in the sails to roll it over. On the other hand, I discovered what ...

These ARE stainless rivets! They are avalible BUT takes a stronger tool then your aluminum pop rivet gun. If you need to replace them then invest in the correct tool.

I am currently reworking my brightwork and have the hatch off. I found a product that I am going to use on both the hatch and the deck where the hatch slides, teflon powder for use in resin! I will resin the hatch lip on both the top and bottom sides where it slides on the wood rail. I will also use...

At least on my 78, the deck the hatch slides on is curved fore to aft. This keeps the hatch firm between the rails and the deck.

No issues at all with the hatch having too much room. It has been in some big blows under sail and in the slip.

My 78 C26 has these rivets as well. I always thought they use to hold snaps on webbing to keep the cusions in place.

I didn't bother to replace the plastic. Sand and wax the deck and then refinished the hatch lip with polyester resin where it slides on the deck. This worked better then the plastic did, of course it was broken and groved.

Sorry, no pictures. I was too busy trying to get the work done! It took about 16 hours (two days) just to mount the toerail.

Very nice, but if you want to close the hole (for snakes or whatever) you might try these, http://www.centekindustries.com/accessories.html, part number 1200134. I've used these in the stern of my C26, cutting off the long pipe, and am attempting to rework the scupper flap to open the other way and ...

Hi Terrence, I have had to do this job with a damaged toe rail a couple of years ago, and I am about to do it again replacing the damaged one with one I just acquired. The deck laps over the hull and the screws mounting the toe rail goes through the hull and back into the core of the deck. I've used...

Now that I've got a toe rail, I am getting Windwalker ready for sailing this summer. One if the things she needs is a new bilge pump. She use to have a Rule 750 that overheated and melted the plastic over the motor. :shock: Now, until this happened, I was happy with the Rule pump. It fit nicely in t...

Your arrangement gives a 3:1 purchase, 1 lbs. on the sheet gives 3 lbs. on the boom, not enough in my opinion.

My vang, described above, gives a 6:1 purchase, and I've need all of it on occasion.

Thanks to all! Trev, that website was great. I found someone at half the cost! (Still more then the part cost!) Dave, I had thought of that, and I could save $100 over the original quote. :? Although I needed only a foot, about 5 feet of the rail was damaged, but usable. All in all, replacing the wh...

Thanks, Trev, I've given it a try. We'll see.

Dale was kind enough to part out a C26 in south Florida and, HOORAY!, had a toe rail for me. We even agreed on the price! :D HOWEVER, and this is were I need your help, the shipping costs from Florida to here in Spokane are almost $500! (this is the cheapest I could find, UPS wanted just under $1000...

Just got mine out to measure, boy do these things get tangled when in storage. Must be the line gnomes :wink: 50' of 1/4 inch line, two triple blocks (mine are Harkin) the bottom with a cam cleat, the top with a solid 4" ring on a 90 degree shackle (so the ring is in line with the block to keep...

Not a Chrysler, but I love this video from the last Volvo race, just thought I'd share.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1gcvHBd7oc

I have gotten my C26 up to 6.4 knots (GPS confirmed).

But why limit to these lengths? As I have stated before, My Chrysler LS16 was at 35 knots (estimate; 40- 45 knot wind, full run, wing on wing, 3 - 5 knots apparent from the stern) on Lake Washington. The HobieCat didn't have a chance.

Windward (C26) has a hull speed of 6.4 knots, and rarely have I been above this.

However, I did do 35 - 40 knots in a Chrysler/Lone Star 16, (full run in 35 to 45 knot winds with 3 knots apparent off the stern).