Page 1 of 1
Help, C-26 can't drop rudder post, what am I doing wrong?
Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:24 pm
I have a new-to-me 1979 C-26. I have removed all the parts that I know of from the top of the rudder post as well as the rudder itself from the bottom. I can't figure out how to get the post to release down. I am wondering if I am missing some step. I put PB Blaster on the metal, and tried to hit it down and sideways with a small sledge and a board to protect the top when I hit it. It feels Like I would damage the boat to hit harder. I am assuming that the narrowest post on the top should slide through everything else.
Here is what it looks like top and bottom.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:01 am
That doesn't look like the original rudder pipe, thicker than stock.
The picture of the bottom side shows bolts through rudder cheeks and pipe. Rudder cheeks and pipe were originally welded together
I wonder if you remove bolts at the bottom you will be able to remove the pipe out the top.
May be a PO repair.
Its my understanding that the C22 and the C26 use the same rudders
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:00 am
Interesting about the top pipe being heaver than normal stock. I got it to move a bit using a pipe wrench, and then I tapped it with a hammer and it dropped a half inch. Now it barely turns again. So, I have now ordered a gear puller to see if that will pull the ring off the top. That is helpful to know that the issue is not a standard issue. can you tell me what the actual dimensions of the top stock is? Or can anyone tell me that? Even the part that goes on top may not be the correct part actually.
The bottom is welded as it should be, so I don't understand the extra screws at all.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 5:47 pm
I assume that you have removed the set screws from the collars. Sometimes there are two screws one deep inside and another put in behind it to keep the first one from backing out.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 6:52 pm
There was only one long screw in each of the two holes. I know I got them out because I had the collar able to turn freely at one level. Then with a few light sideways taps the rod dropped about a half inch. It is very snug again. I hadn't considered short set screws, but these screws were long - you can see them in the picture on the lazarette behind the rod and collar.
Thanks for checking on that idea. I don't expect to get the gear puller till late next week at the earliest. I will report how that goes. I figure I will need to do a lot of sanding with some Emory cloth or something to get the collar back on when I have all the parts ready to go back together.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:41 pm
I finally got it apart. In order to get it apart, I used a gear puller (two ton pressure) and rigged something on top to cover the hole that would go through the ring. Once I did that it went smoothly. I have no idea how much pressure it actually took, but on my first attempt it busted through the washer and broke split a mahogany plug I created. The next attempt, I got a heavier washer and put a heavy bolt with a square head through the washer down into the hole of the pipe.. I created an indentation for the point of the puller to sit in and you know the rest.
I wonder after I sand it all down, how hard it will be to get it all back together.