Keel Replacement on Trailer

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dfisher
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:00 am

Keel Replacement on Trailer

Postby dfisher » Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:22 pm

Hello There. I just bought a 76 Chrysler 22 on Saturday. I got her home and immediately noticed the keel damage (steel cable replaced with rope, dent in keel pocket, slight water stains by the keel bracket). I looked at my trailer and it looks like I could remove my axles (by unbolting the leaf springs) and raising the rest of the trailer on four jack stands. I'm not looking for someone to say that this is fool proof but has anyone tried this method? I have attached a photo to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Also, I see a lot of old ads with people taking about mass production of keel brackets. Is anyone currently doing this? Thank you and I look forward to learning more about this boat

[img]http://s924.photobucket.com/user/dfisher7/media/photo6_zps50699e4a.jpg.html?filters[user]=137678108&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0[/img][/img]

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Windwalker
Posts: 146
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:37 am
Location: Spokane, WA

Postby Windwalker » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:30 am

This is the method I used to drop the keel of Windwalker when I first got her. I used 6 ton jack stands and timbers to build the trailer up high enough to get the keel off, several feet if memory serves me.

I did this on concrete, make sure the jack-stand bases are well supported by wide solid bases if you are doing this on dirt. The boat and trailer will weigh in excess of 3 tons.
Dave

1978 C26 S/V "Windwalker"

Smier
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:51 am

Postby Smier » Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:39 am

There is no one mass producing any of these brackets currently, however, you have 2 options currently. You can find your own local fabrication shop, or you can call Stewart Stainless in Waco, Texas. I recently ordered a set of brackets and pin from Stewart's shop, and they have the templates to make more for others! Cost was $320 plus shipping. I need to get some pictures of the set they made for me and do a little write up to let others know about this.
Our sets were made out of 304 SS, not 316 SS. I'd assume the cost would go up slightly for 316 Stainless. I am not too concerned, my originals were apparently plain steel and lasted 30 years, I figure the 304 stainless should outlast my originals. Feel free to PM me if you want more info, Scott.

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double "D"
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Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:20 am
Location: Western Montana

Postby double "D" » Fri Apr 04, 2014 7:42 am

White Water to Waves
1974 22' Sandpiper Frayed Knot
1995 20'Bayliner
14' River Raft
14' Canoe

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C22Bob
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:03 pm
Location: Knoxville TN

Postby C22Bob » Fri Apr 04, 2014 12:34 pm

As for the nylon rod tensioner, I agree not a great design, but I think it was included on the later models, not the other way around. I have a 1980 C22 that has the tensioner. Since we're on the subject, the tensioner is not completely a bad idea. To properly work, the tension would have to be exerted from both sides. I assume Chrysler knew that, but didn't want to change the trunk starboard side, where there's not much room for any device. I suppose the logic was one side was better than nothing. I'd like to see a ball actuator type device instead. Something very tightly spring loaded where a metal ball engages a detent machined into the keel. When the keel lowers, you hear a nice pop sound indicating it's reached the limit and actuator is engaged. The force would be strong enough to act like a keel lock, but under major strain (grounding) the ball would pop out and allow the keel to swing. Of course, I'm dreaming :)


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