My take on swing keel repair
Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:04 am
Hello,
Having just joined the forum, I thought I'd add in a few posts on my restoration of S/V Lady Anne; particularly the swing keel repair.
To begin...When I obtained her, un-named and gnarly, the swing keel brackets were rusted severely...looked OEM and exposed to saltwater long term (boat history indicated berth on Gulf Coast). I assumed that in that state, if launched, she'd take on water in no time.
The first step was getting her off the trailer and onto the bunks we made to support her for the restoration. We did this using beefy timbers with multiple tie ins and fastening; assuming the entire 3k lbs would have to be evenly supported from some months. It took about a week to finish these themselves. We used high density plastic to "bed" the contours, which we cut using a template we made from the boat's own hull.
Using a forklift, we raised her off the forward end of the trailer, and set the stern first, then pulled the trailer and placed the forward bunk. This all went surprisingly well.
Dropping the keel itself too much more effort...we built a cradle, but had to go easy with the forklift to get it placed. In the end, we were still about 2" short, and had to "kick" the keel out on an angle (leverage does amazing things). We couldn't get the pin out from the port side access, so I used a whole pack of SAWSALL blades to cut both sides free.
A family friend and long-term machinist made the replacement brackets out of high-grade carbon steel, which we coated (reasoning that the former were CS and lasted at least a few decades). SS or bronze would've been nice, but $$$ and the ability to mill the material had a lot to do with our decision. So far, I've not regretted it.
We found a correct diameter length of high grade SS for the new pin, and did several "dry fits" before bedding the brackets in with GE silicon. I've read lots of material on what / what not to use for bedding, but my take is that if you allow a few minutes for the silicon to cure, use plenty of it, and think of it as a gasket...not adhesive...you get the same effect. Five months wet, and I've no leaks.
I opted to remove the "snubber"...didn't plan on ever going blue water and didn't want to break the housing if I ran aground in our shallow lakes. Used off-the-shelf pluming to replace the "snubber" housing.
I used brass washers and SS bolts; logic being that the SS wouldn't corrode as fast (if kept dry) and the brass would "seal" a little better. This too was a calculated risk, but so far, it seems to have been a wise (and neat looking) solution.
We faired the keel by using a lot of elbow grease, then filling with Marine glass, re-sanding, re-filling, sanding again, then painting.
For paint, I did lots of homework...then decided to be a rebel and NOT use West System (gasp!!)
I used an industrial alkyd machinery and equipment enamel...so far, it doesn't appear to be blistering, fading or seeping. As an added bonus, I'm not breathing in copper dust.
I decided to keep the keel cable that was one her as I saw no kinks, "fish-hooks", fraying or even that much corrosion before getting her wet. We'll see what it all looks likes this Spring when hopefully we pull her again for annual checks.
Having just joined the forum, I thought I'd add in a few posts on my restoration of S/V Lady Anne; particularly the swing keel repair.
To begin...When I obtained her, un-named and gnarly, the swing keel brackets were rusted severely...looked OEM and exposed to saltwater long term (boat history indicated berth on Gulf Coast). I assumed that in that state, if launched, she'd take on water in no time.
The first step was getting her off the trailer and onto the bunks we made to support her for the restoration. We did this using beefy timbers with multiple tie ins and fastening; assuming the entire 3k lbs would have to be evenly supported from some months. It took about a week to finish these themselves. We used high density plastic to "bed" the contours, which we cut using a template we made from the boat's own hull.
Using a forklift, we raised her off the forward end of the trailer, and set the stern first, then pulled the trailer and placed the forward bunk. This all went surprisingly well.
Dropping the keel itself too much more effort...we built a cradle, but had to go easy with the forklift to get it placed. In the end, we were still about 2" short, and had to "kick" the keel out on an angle (leverage does amazing things). We couldn't get the pin out from the port side access, so I used a whole pack of SAWSALL blades to cut both sides free.
A family friend and long-term machinist made the replacement brackets out of high-grade carbon steel, which we coated (reasoning that the former were CS and lasted at least a few decades). SS or bronze would've been nice, but $$$ and the ability to mill the material had a lot to do with our decision. So far, I've not regretted it.
We found a correct diameter length of high grade SS for the new pin, and did several "dry fits" before bedding the brackets in with GE silicon. I've read lots of material on what / what not to use for bedding, but my take is that if you allow a few minutes for the silicon to cure, use plenty of it, and think of it as a gasket...not adhesive...you get the same effect. Five months wet, and I've no leaks.
I opted to remove the "snubber"...didn't plan on ever going blue water and didn't want to break the housing if I ran aground in our shallow lakes. Used off-the-shelf pluming to replace the "snubber" housing.
I used brass washers and SS bolts; logic being that the SS wouldn't corrode as fast (if kept dry) and the brass would "seal" a little better. This too was a calculated risk, but so far, it seems to have been a wise (and neat looking) solution.
We faired the keel by using a lot of elbow grease, then filling with Marine glass, re-sanding, re-filling, sanding again, then painting.
For paint, I did lots of homework...then decided to be a rebel and NOT use West System (gasp!!)
I used an industrial alkyd machinery and equipment enamel...so far, it doesn't appear to be blistering, fading or seeping. As an added bonus, I'm not breathing in copper dust.
I decided to keep the keel cable that was one her as I saw no kinks, "fish-hooks", fraying or even that much corrosion before getting her wet. We'll see what it all looks likes this Spring when hopefully we pull her again for annual checks.
