Fried Sailor 280

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:58 am

My Chrysler Sailor 280 overheated, died and seized up. The plan was to tear it down and overhaul it this winter, I'm hoping that's still possible. I'll get it off the boat and start working on it this week.

On the plus side, it took care of us as long as it could hold out, failing about 100 yards from the dock. We managed to get in with the help of a very nice fellow on a big PWC.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:59 am

Ouch, hate to hear that. I lost the impeller in mine once, and it ran a bit hot before I noticed. Fortunately I was idling at the dock getting ready to depart and could shut it off unlike you.

Turned the head just a bit off color but seems to be okay, although I'm too chicken to test the compression !

Catch up with Franz at franzmarine@aol.com if you need any advice or parts. The guy is so good with old Chrysler outboards I think he's other-worldly

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:01 am

I already have the factory shop manual from Franz. I'm sure he and I will be talking.

I'll let you guys know what I find during tear down.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:46 am

Good luck with the tear down.
Hopefully there is no warping!!!

Scott

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:05 pm

I've seized many of 2stroke motors...doesnt mean it needs to be torn down. Usually after they cool they free themselves. I've seized them by not remembering to mix the oil with the gas and by over heating them. Obviously its not good for them, but doesnt always warrant a tear down. free it up and check the compression.

clair hofmann · Post by **clair hofmann** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:41 pm

I second tnc110. I bought an 8 hp Suzuki for a parts motor. It was seized. Paid 200.00 for it . got it home and looked it over, It looked to be in too good shape to part out. I pulled the plugs and poured PB Blaster in the cyls. and let it sit a few hours. I put a breaker bar on the flywheel and eventually got it to spin. I cleared the cylinders, replaced the plugs, shot some starting fluid in the carb and it fired! I put it in a barrel and hooked a fuel line to it and it ran. Oil injection even worked. I did tear down the carb and cleaned it out and put in 1 new coil. I now use it on a 13 ft runabout. Still looking for a tiller for a 9.9 Suzuki for my 26 motor.
Clair

clair hofmann · Post by **clair hofmann** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:42 pm

I second tnc110. I bought an 8 hp Suzuki for a parts motor. It was seized. Paid 200.00 for it . got it home and looked it over, It looked to be in too good shape to part out. I pulled the plugs and poured PB Blaster in the cyls. and let it sit a few hours. I put a breaker bar on the flywheel and eventually got it to spin. I cleared the cylinders, replaced the plugs, shot some starting fluid in the carb and it fired! I put it in a barrel and hooked a fuel line to it and it ran. Oil injection even worked. I did tear down the carb and cleaned it out and put in 1 new coil. I now use it on a 13 ft runabout. Still looking for a tiller for a 9.9 Suzuki for my 26 motor.
Clair

Mario G · Post by **Mario G** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:58 am

Sorry to hear that T&C hope it is as easy a fix as a little pb blaster.
I have been talking to www.fairwindsmarina.com/chryslerpage.htm about my 10hp engine. would franzmarine@aol.com have parts also?

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:39 am

Thanks for the encouragement folks. If nothing else I need to figure out why the coolant stopped flowing. I think I'll be visiting the boat Wednesday, so I'll see if she'll turn over.

Mario, Franz has parts and advice. I'm also really pleased with the factory workshop manual I got from him. It appears to be new old stock.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:23 am

I've had success with the same on dirt bikes. As long as you are patient and don't chip or break a ring by trying to hard too soon it may work out.

On the cooling issue, the Sailor 280 is pretty easy to work on impeller-wise. The first time I changed mine I only did the impeller itself and not the shaft seals becuase they looked fine. The second time a month later (which was the overheat time) I changed the little seal below the impeller like I should have the first time. It was leaking air just a bit, and not letting the pump pull water.

Also if you do the impeller yourself take a pic of the shift rod connector before you take the leg off. The 2 rods will go back together on either side of the other, but only one way doesn't bind when the leg is back on. And loctite the allen screw, it will vibrate loose !

Geez, I'm noticing that most of my knowledge on the motor comes from doing things wrong the first time. Hmm.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:48 am

EE,
I had it apart once already to check the impeller, due to a little overheating on an earlier trip. The impeller was perfect, but I did find some small bits of rubber in the pump. No idea where they came from and it seemed to work fine for a while. I suspect there is more of the same clogging things up.

My original plan was an overhaul over the winter anyway, so as long as nothing is seriously damaged I'll stick to my plan.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:55 am

Had the same thing in mine, never figured out where they came from !
Good Luck !

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:09 am

Its amazing how a good looking impeller or any type of water pump, can look to be in good shape but just wont pump water. A lot of times its not just a bad impellar, but the housing. If it gets just a little out of wack or scarred it wont work. I'm not sure about the chrysler motors, but most pump kits include a new housing, all seals and an impellar for around $50. Usually a pretty easy job.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:41 pm

BTW:

In a OEM Chrysler OB brochure... they boast the Sailor 280 has 280 LBS of foward thrust and 210 LBS. of Reverse static thrust! Also a 5 amp 9 pole alternator! Breakerlss electronic CD ignition, weighs 79. This site has all very detailed OEM specs like gearing and the prop data etc. in the original brochure...

(http://www.hurrikain.com/thechryslercrew/

go to the 1979 outboard OEM brochure and scroll through and find the chart at the very end)

P>S> In the 1980 OB brochure you will be treated to pics of teh C22 and the Sailor 25 and 150

Chrysler20%26 · Post by **Chrysler20%26** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:51 pm

My Fuel Line from Bushing to Fuel Pump rotted away. When I rebult the Fuel Pump it looked good. But now just using the Prime Bulb - mager gas leak. I can fix that one, with boat in water, but I think that the gas line from pump to carb must be bad to. A over the winter job, if it is not leaking. So thare I was out in the bay with only sail power. The wind was just right, I sailed a the way to the dock, single handed with no troble. (given my self a pat on the back hear) Wonder what calsed the fuel line to fail. I use gas stabelizer ??? (CHECK FUEL LINES)

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:13 am

Good sailing 20%26!
Lets face it, these motors we love some much are 30 years old!
The rubber parts and hoses are getting old and brittle, I have found as make repairs and do maintenance on my 280 it best to replace any rubber part I come across then I know I'm good for another 30 years.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:12 am

The good news:
It took only a slight pull to break the motor free. I got it to start.

The bad news:
Compression is 110 and 100 (spec is 125-135). It smokes a lot and isn't pumping water reliably. I suspect a leaky water pump seal that allows it to work when the pump is submerged completely, but otherwise sucks air. I also have some water in my lower unit oil.

I think I have another project for the winter. Restoring my Sailor 280 mechanically and cosmetically to her former glory. Franz and I will be getting to each other.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:12 am

Yup, if the lower pump shaft seal is bad, it won't pump all the way to the head, but it will dribble water down the shaft into the gear oil. Guess how I know that.

I didn't do a ring job on mine, but did do carb kit, fuel pump, fuel lines, impeller and seals, and a disassembly/inspection of the gearbox.

I also later removed the powerhead to replace a broken roll pin on the upper end of the shift rod. I'd recommend doing that pin while you have the powerhead out. It is a really light pin, and if anybody has ever pushed hard on the shifter do to binding it may be ready to give next time you shift. Guess how I know that.