Chrysler 26 Rudder Woes

[eamac]

Hello Fellow Chrysler Sailors,

I am leaving my first post in hopes that you may help with some advice regarding the kick-up rudder on our Chrysler 26 which continually kicks up and compromises our steering ability. During this first season with our boat, my ignorance regarding testing the rudder control lines while the boat was "on the hard" is coming back to haunt us. The existing line has no effect on raising and lowering the rudder blade. I am considering getting the boat to shallow water and getting in the water to remove the rudder blade and replace the lines. My questions are as follows:

1) Is it feasible to attempt line replacement while the boat is in the water? (we have no trailer)
2) From diagrams observed on the Chrysler Assoc. website, I assume there are two separate lines attaching at two separate points on the blade. Is this correct? Currently, there appears to be one line in poor condition, the loop end of which is exiting the rudder post.
3) How do the lines attach to the holes in the rudder blade?

Any insight you can offer is most appreciated. Many thanks to all those who have posted previously and contributed to my education regarding the C-26. I won't give up easily!

[NoRush]

I have had that problem as well, for me the line that "kicks" up the rudder is the only one that has any affect. I've never been able to put the rudder down by just pulling the line. A "fix" I have used is to push the rudder down with a boat pole while pulling the line that brings the rudder down and tie a stopper knot in it to keep it from coming up again. It has worked so far.

One problem with removing the rudder while wet is that it is designed to float. It might be very difficult to remount the rudder.

[eamac]

Dear No Rush,

Thanks for your reply and comments regarding the floating properties of the rudder. I might just have to rough it for the rest of the season. It is comforting to know that I am not alone in this problem. I might consider putting a fixed rudder in place over the winter. I appreciate the concept of the kick up rudder, but from what I read, it may not be practical.

Regards,
Betsy M.

[jstplan]

Hello Betsy

Don't give up on your swing-up rudder. Mine works very well and yours can be made to work too. This swing-up rudder can be a very nice thing to have when working in thin water. My down hold line is cleated to the tiller and is used to pull the rudder blade down. The other line holds it in the up position, in my case when at dock.

Get by the rest of the season, then plan on removing the rudder blade with the boat on the hard. Replacing the up and down lines is not a pleasant task but one that is not too involved. One bolt removes the rudder blade. Routing the new lines correctly is critical to proper working rudder, a diagram is available. I will be renewing mine this winter, I'll be happy to share the experience.

Mike

[eamac]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the vote of confidence on the kick up rudder. I have decided to try to rig something to get by this season and will attempt rehab of the lines this winter. For now, I am considering some sort of temporary brace to frame the joint of the blade.

I don't plan to enter very shallow water this season, so my main interest is keeping the thing down. I realize hydrodynamics may suffer, but it's better to be sailing than sitting at the dock.

I am interested to learn your progress in replacing the lines. Thanks for the offer of sharing your experience.

Regards,
Betsy

[Zilbub]

Howdy,

If you have a crane available where you dock, you can use one strap at the stern (forward of the rudder stock) and just raise the stern while the bow sits in the water. As long as you have the ability to stand on the bottom while replacing the rudder control lines, you're golden.