Soft Spot on Deck

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devindiedrich
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 9:41 am
Location: Ramsey, MN

Soft Spot on Deck

Post by devindiedrich »

Hi Everyone,

I am looking for some advice. I was doing some work on my C-22 and noticed that I have a soft spot on one side of my deck below the windows. Has anyone had any experience with this on their boats? If so, what have you done? Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Devin
mjt

Post by mjt »

It sounds to me like there could be some de-lamination of the fiberglass occuring. I'm assuming that if you tap the end of a screwdriver handle on the deck you are hearing a "thud" sound rather than a "ping" sound.

Fortunately, I have not encountered this problem with my C-22. However, there is a book called "This Old Boat" written by a guy named Casey that can walk you through the process of making the repair.
devindiedrich
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 9:41 am
Location: Ramsey, MN

Post by devindiedrich »

Thanks for the reply. I have since picked up the book "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair" by Casey. I did the screwdriver test and definitely got more of a thud than the ping that I get in the surronding area.

Does anyone know what the deck is cored with? Just wondering if I have to worry about a rotten core in that area or just with the delamination. Again, any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks Again,
Devin
Michael O'Brien
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 7:58 pm
Location: Dallas, Texas

Soft Spot on Deck

Post by Michael O'Brien »

I happened to talk to the former Chrysler chief engineer today and ran your problem by him. There is a balsa wood core. He says you can live with some delamination, but a simple repair would be to drill small holes and pump in some catalytic polyester resin. This would be a two part process, making sure the spot is saturated with the catalyst before adding the second part. Of, course, the leak should be stopped.
I also happened to talk to a former dealer, who still works on Chryslers and has a lot of parts. He says problem leaks are around the windows, the toe rail and thru bolt fittings. (He has also seen many leaks attributed to the drop keel really coming from the polyuthrethane joint between the bottom of the hull and the stern lazerette shelf where the cockpit drains flow. That joint loosens and the water flows down the hull under the liner and leaks out at the trunk, leading one to believe it is the hinge pin when it isn't.)
He says you have to careful and not bend the window frame re-doing the seal, or there will be problems. He says that he has a bunch of window frames and lenses, but recommends going to a double lens and a vent. His solution to through-bolt leaks into the balsa is to remove the fitting, drill the holes oversize, pack them from the bottom with polyester filler and redrill them. Then make sure of the new seal on the top. Hope this helps. Michael O'Brien
devindiedrich
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 9:41 am
Location: Ramsey, MN

Post by devindiedrich »

Thank you for the detailed post. I appreciate you talking with others about my problem. It sounds like you have a couple great sources for information.

I will probably end up drilling the small holes in the deck and injecting resin. I was dreading the thought of having to tear up any of the deck to recore the area. There are come stress cracks that run along the transition from the deck to the cabin that need to be taken care of as well in case they were aiding the problem.

The advice about the window frame will also be helpfull. I know at least 2 of the windows leak so I will be resealing them. I am new to sailing so forgive my ignorance but what is a window with a double lens and a vent? Just curious.

One last thing, does your former dealer aquaintance sell any of the parts he has or just use them for the work he does? It is always good to know sources for information and parts if the need comes up.

Thank you again. You have been very helpful.

Devin
Michael O'Brien
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 7:58 pm
Location: Dallas, Texas

windows

Post by Michael O'Brien »

Thanks for your note - I don't know what he means about vented double lenses either, but I'm to go look and find out. I imagine they are a retrofit that is less expensive than opening portlights. Yes, he has stuff for sale, and I'll try to get a list. There is a good post from March 24th if I recall correctly that has good ideas on sealing the windows. Regards, Michael
Michael O'Brien
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 7:58 pm
Location: Dallas, Texas

deck soft spot repair

Post by Michael O'Brien »

Devin - If you haven't already made your repair, I've run across an excellent book, "The Boat Repair Manual" by George Buchanan, Gulf Publishing Co (1985) which is a short encyclopedia. It may have been mentioned in an earlier post by someone else. Also, you probably know West Marine carries inexpensive ($3-4) manuals on Fiberglass Repair and Gelcoat Blisters from the West System. Regards, MHO
devindiedrich
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 9:41 am
Location: Ramsey, MN

Post by devindiedrich »

Thanks for the book reference. I don't have that book but I will see if I can check it out before I do the repair. I did get "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair" by Casey and that seems to go over the process pretty well. Hopefully I will have the time and the right weather to make the repair in the next couple weeks.

Have you been able to find out any more on the double lens windows? Just curious.

Thanks again,
Devin
jim_dorton01
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 8:13 am
Location: Maumee, Ohio

Post by jim_dorton01 »

Devin,

I was wondering how you made out with your deck. I was rebedding the safety line holders ( real technical huh) and discovered wet wood (suprise). As I was drilling holes to dry it out and put in the CPES I found that just forward of the (safety line holders) and aft there was no wood directly underneath of the fiberglass. I know I'm showing my ignorance but there appears to only be wood under some potions of the fiberglass. Is this consistent with what you found. I thought 'holy you knowwhat' all the wood is rotted. I too appear to have some delam by the window area and was wondering what I would find before I drill any more holes.
dybis
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2003 12:56 am

Post by dybis »

I had soft deck below the windows. I filled it with polyester and epoxy. Be careful, it might flow into the cockpit. I drilled holes. I have also replaced the window. I put in new glasses made by Lexan, and put them on the outside. Lexan is very strong glass (used in bullet proff glasses), and the area surrounding the window is now more stable after insererstion of the Lexan glass. Some leaks that appeared to be comming from the window was comming from the hatch rail screw hole.... The Lexan glasses gave the boat a modern look. Lexan glasses with colors are available.
devindiedrich
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 9:41 am
Location: Ramsey, MN

Post by devindiedrich »

Jim,
I noticed exactly what you have described. All the safety line holders were in need of being rebedded and probably had been for a while. I ended up rebedding all the safety line holders and chain plates as well as re caulking the toe rails and windows. It doesn't seem to leak anymore which is good. I found rotted wood and a soft deck from cockpit coaming to safety line holder beyond the chain plate on one side. There doesn't seem to be any problems on the other side. I drilled holes in the deck between the cockpit coaming up to the chain plate and filled with polyester resin. It definetely made the deck stiff where I filled. The only problem with drilling the holes is that you can't really match the non skid pattern so it looks like a patch job. I guess it is better that having a spongy deck though. I still have a small spot that is a bit spongy on deck in front of the chain plate but I am leaving that for another day. My big project this spring was replacing the rudder thru hull fittings which ended up being a real pain. Now it is in the water and not leaking so I am happy. Time to go sailing!
Take it easy,
Devin
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