KNOT SURE pics online

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Ira Madsen
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Location: Dauphin Island, Alabama

KNOT SURE pics online

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:53 am

Progress pictures of my 18 month Chrysler 26 project, KNOT SURE, are now online. More will come as I progress/regress.


https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/20109351010

Ira Madsen
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:11 am
Location: Dauphin Island, Alabama

KNOT SURE Pics

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:10 am

The previous link to my photo album probably won't work for you...
unless you have a Shutterfly account.

Use this link: http://pix.sfly.com/WG7wGxjd

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CaptainScott
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Postby CaptainScott » Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:32 am

The second link works for me! Nice looking C26!
I like you battery digital readout! Pretty slick!

Do the dual batteries cause the C26 to list at all?
Just curious because most C22 tend to list to starboard so I install the battery box on the port side!


Scott

Ira Madsen
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Listing to Port

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:26 am

Yes, I considered the weight factor. There is another starter battery behind the white bulkhead, too.

Actually, I don't know...or, to be more precise, I'm KNOT SURE. I have never seen this boat in the water! Left as-is, it would probably have a nasty list to port.

I intend to counterbalance the batteries by installing or storing everything else of any weight (cooler, spare anchor, etc) on the starboard side. I hope this will counterbalance the boat effectively.

We'll see...

Ira

Ira Madsen
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Digital Meter

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:39 am

Yes, the digital meter is very cool! It measures volts, amps, amp hours, amp hour percentage and charge state. Here's where I bought it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172213333578?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

There are two concerns I've found so far. First, the darned thing looks huge in the eBay picture...it's actually quite small. Check the dimensions on the ad.
Second, for current to be accurately measured, all power must go through the meter! It must be between battery and load for amps/hours to work right. So, what's the problem?

Because of the size of the meter, it has very small connector screws on the back. You can't just attach a big battery cable to it. I came up with a work-around that should be OK. I terminate the big battery cable at a terminal block next to the meter. From the block, I've routed 2 smaller wires (multiples to prevent power loss) to the meter, and two small wires OUT of the meter, to another terminal block. The backside block then becomes the power source for everything in the house. (hope that's not too confusing)

In all, I love the meter! It's origin is China, so plan on waiting a couple of weeks to receive yours. You'll be amazed by the price, too.

Ira Madsen
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:11 am
Location: Dauphin Island, Alabama

Meter Wiring Photo

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:56 am

I have added a picture of the meter wiring solution described previously.

A terminal block on the left for incoming power (large cables from battery). Multiple smaller wires connecting to the meter itself. Another terminal block "behind" the meter for connecting ALL power requirements. It is connected by mulitiple wires to lessen the power losses on both input and output.

http://pix.sfly.com/WG7wGxjd

Ira

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Postby CaptainScott » Mon Dec 05, 2016 1:15 pm

Yeah,
that meter does look small!
I did not notice before but now I see the 12v ports for reference.
I still think it is a pretty cool meter though!

Not sure I'd want it inline with all the power needs though!
Guess if it is certified for the currents you will be generating it is fine!


Looks like a nice inverter stuffed back there too! Cool!

We've been slowly converting Destiny to all 12v or as much as possible for time spent on the hook! This year we watched almost zero TV since the kids did not go with us! No TV and a 100 watt solar panel this year and we were set! LOL!

Scott

Ira Madsen
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:11 am
Location: Dauphin Island, Alabama

Postby Ira Madsen » Mon Dec 05, 2016 1:29 pm

I should have stated earlier that the meter will read voltage, accurate to 1/100 volt, if it's connected anywhere in your 12v system. It is only the amp related readings (amps, amp-hours and amphour percent) that require all loads running thru it.

I don't think there is a problem running all power thru the meter, it's rated at 90 amps. The only problem is the size of the meter's connectors.

Ira

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Guster
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Postby Guster » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:06 am

I always admire the C26. Its got to be the best "cruiser" that is trailer-able.

Did you add the bridge traveler or the P.O.? It looks like the width could end up being more of a hindrance that a benefit. But I have an uncanny ability to snag my clothes and hit my shins on things.

Thanks for sharing the electrical meter. I will probably order one for another application. It is amazing what china has to offer in the way of cool little electrical devices. I recently bought a little PID temperature controller that operates just as good as ones I was paying $200 for a few years ago. I bought his one for $14.

Be sure to keep posting pictures for us!

Dan
70's Barnett Butterfly "Blue Jean"
1980 Mutineer "Guster"
1976 C-22

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Postby EmergencyExit » Tue Dec 06, 2016 6:29 pm

Looking sweet !

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Postby Reality » Tue Dec 06, 2016 7:41 pm

the meter is cool, but I'd like to know more about what happens when it fails. Does it shunt power through or make an open circuit. FMEA (failure mode effects analysis) is important so a meter failure doesn't leave you with no power. I think as a fail safe I'd wire a normally open DPDT switch that can by pass the meter.

Ira Madsen
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Good idea

Postby Ira Madsen » Thu Dec 08, 2016 7:26 am

A bypass switch is smart. Thanks!


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