Thoughts on decals and graphics...

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:02 pm

This issue has been touched upon in various threads before but I have an immediate issue...

I am still out of the water and finally found someone who gave me an offer I could'nt refuse to professionally spray pain ( awl grip my top sides..)
I then ask him about the boot stripe and cove stripe and name... ( simple navy blue... nothin' fancy.

He tells me he wasn't planning on it and that I should call the local graphics guys to come over quick, measure and just make up decals...

I am in a hurry to get in on what is left of the greatest sailing weather summer ever ( my luck...I am on the hard) are decals any good, a waste of money... a quick solution to the matter..

BTW, I have a OEM 1-1/2" ( I think) thru-hull for the sink and now is the time to get a proper seacock done.. any thoughts.. on maerelon or brass, is 1-1/2 the right size.?

Also, I have a old peice of teak between my external motor mount and the transom -- do I need this.. I was going to replace it with starboard...

Finally, I will put the name n the transom ( tradditionalist and only need one name... ) any one have any pics or thoguths on how to lay this out...

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:35 pm

Funny you should ask. I just did a name for a boat. Made the logo up in MsWord, and a free graphics program, then cut and applied it myself. $10 in materials. Counting the fresh X-Acto blades !

When I get to the house tonight and can post the pic, I'll detail the "How To". Not hard at all !

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:57 pm

I'm very interested in EE's method of decaling and look forward to the results!!

However a good vynal decal installed proper can look fantastic for years.
We've used them on several boats and the hold up well!

A few gotchyas though. If you hit the decal with something hard or sharp you can tear some from the boat. Also, when you buff the boat you must be carefull if you are using anytype of abrasive.

Scott

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:29 pm

thanks...

I knew the name was a typical decal but boot and cove stripes? anyway, waiting for the estimates and for them to get back to me... got to get in the ( empty and expensive) slip ( ugh!) soon!

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:46 pm

FYI:
Here is our previous Destiny.
The stripes below the toe rail were vynal by the previous owner.
The name was matched perfectly and installed at our request.
At the time of the photo, the name decal was almost 5 years old and the stripes were even older.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:33 pm

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:17 am

Excellent description! I may be tempted to give it a try! I've used a LOT of Monokote in my time! LOL!

Anybody out there google EE's new boat name?

Love it!!

Scott

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:54 am

EE
Great step by step, does Monokote come in different colors?

As for your new boat name...does it refer to the boat, captain, crew, or all of the above?

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:23 am

First question answer - There's both Monokote which is an iron on covering, you don't want that, and Monokote Trim Sheets which is like a big blank bumper sticker 5"x36", and yes that comes in many colors and patterns. But unless you doing a small logo that size, or two rows in the logo, you'll probably need to find a piece of vinyl. Sometimes the sign shops will sell you a scrap big enough

Second question answer - I plead the 5th.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:52 am

NYCSAILOR wrote:thanks...

I knew the name was a typical decal but boot and cove stripes? anyway, waiting for the estimates and for them to get back to me... got to get in the ( empty and expensive) slip ( ugh!) soon!

NYC, I also applied EE's cove and boot stripes with material from West Marine. Wasn't that hard, and about $60 I think. I had the old ones to go by though.

If your painter would just lay a strip of masking tape down over the boot stripe before he paints, it would help you lay down a stripe later ??

Bow Pics of the before and after are here-

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:53 am

I did the boot stripe with "clean edge" masking tape and the roll and tip method. Any auto body supplier will know what you mean if you ask for "clean edge" tape.

I designed our name/logo using GIMP, free software that can do about anything PhotoShop can do. I sent a PDF of the graphic to a local sign painter who painted it on. I just didn't want decals, plus the paint can always be touched up.

In my case, with multi-colors the quotes I was getting for vinyl graphics weren't that much less than having it painted.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:36 am

Ok, Just hung up with local graphics house....

total cost for the cove strip + boot strip + name + registration numbers + installation ($85/hr x 3 hrs) = $550. ( p.s. - when questioned about labor rate - she said .." well, ugh , I guess, you could install it yourself..)

Here is what I was told...

You need 2 mil decals -- the West Marine are just 1 mil and will not likely last three years. the "professional 2 mil decals " will last 5 yrs or more.

the USBOAT names graphics.. won't last two seasons.

the local graphics house does NOTHING, they order it from a "professional supplier" and then hire a guy that comes in and installs it.

The decal will last much longer than the paint.. if you paint it it will get scratched up, if you use the decal it is so damn durable it will look better.

The strip decal, is just colored 2 mil tape ( she told me what material, but I forget) and they just order the width and length you want.

-------

EE, what a timely and wonderfully detailed "how To guide" thanks!

I so much want to get into the water quick this season ( oh, I am paying $1,000 for a empty slip) -- I realize there is a limit to what I can do... but if you are going to paint it.. now is the time to do the seacock and the motor bracket and the stripes and the name.... UGH!

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:13 pm

tgentry wrote:I designed our name/logo using GIMP, free software that can do about anything PhotoShop can do.

GIMP is a favorite of mine as well. I made the "Callipygian" logo using MsWord and GIMP. All the banners and graphics at the club website are done in GIMP.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:01 pm

NYC,
I think we could all predict that the decal place would say decals are better than paint. I'm not saying which is better, to each his own, but do consider the source.

In my case, the boot stripe cost me > $100 in materials, and was really pretty easy to do. I even made mine red with white borders.

The name logos were $180 and didn't require anything of me but payment (no installation time or problems). He did an excellent job, no scratches yet, and if it does get scratched 5 minutes with a touch up brush will fix it. When decals are damaged or faded the only recourse is new decals.

Personally, I just prefer paint. Maybe it's my car restoration background. Tape stripes are frowned upon.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:45 am

Yes, I know I did cite and consider the source of the info...

I want paint but my paint guy is not really interested in doing it....

So I just tape it off and then roll/tip the stripes? How can I reasonble be sure to get the outer boundries of the masking tape straingt (laser)?

I don't want to screw -up a nice expensive pro spray awl-grip job...

I guess I will shop around for sign painters if there are any left?

I agree with you on paint and car restoration... it is sad what is goiong on today but it is a diffrent world... back in the day, tape pin stripes were shoddy and chezzy.. today, I am amazed at the acceptability, even at some shows ( although they do score lower) of "wraps"

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:28 am

For the lines on the boot stripe I just followed the original lines in the gelcoat. I had the advantage of scoring them with a utility knife so I could still see them slightly after the paint.

At this point you would probably have to either go for straight stripes, which I suspect you'd get from a vinyl place anyway, or use a laser or the old hose and water level technique. PM me if you need an explanation. Doing it that way gives you stripes that VISUALLY appear to be straight and constant thickness.

As for getting the lines straight, if you've ever done tape pinstripes it's the same technique. Just stretch out a couple feet of tape at a time and follow the lines. It's way easier than it sounds and if you're not happy with the section you just put down, pull it up and reapply.

I couldn't find a sign painter either, it's a dieing art. I called the art department at my local community college and 3 phone calls later I had the right guy.

Here are some pics of my boot stripe:
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/tg ... wPaint.jpg

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/tg ... icName.jpg