LS-16: SOURCE (or suggestions) FOR RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

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mikepaddle
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:13 am
Location: Dallas, TX.

LS-16: SOURCE (or suggestions) FOR RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

Post by mikepaddle »

I am picking up my LS-16 next Monday. The boat is no spring chicken, but she is in overall good shape for her age and had been owned by the same family for 30+ years. She sustained damage in a high wind storm several years ago and all of the hull damage and most of the deck damage has been properly repaired.

Aside from needing a good bath and some cosmetic work, the most time consuming restoration needed will be to replace the plywood flooring and the perimeter rub rail.

I would love to hear from anyone who has tackled a similar project as well as find a source for the rub rail material.

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Dallas, TX.
Mfoxchicago
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:16 pm
Location: San Angelo, Texas

Replacement Rub Rails for Lone Star Hulls

Post by Mfoxchicago »

Hello Mike, I too have a Lone Star, actually a LS13. I am refurbishing her, new paint, a few things before putting her on the water this summer. Primarily, I am looking for a suitable replacement rub rail. I noticed your posting and was wondering if you located one and where. Perhaps the same solution would work for my LS13.

Hope to hear from you very soon.

Thanks,

Mack
San Angelo, Tx
pizzacutter
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Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 4:09 am

Source for Rub Rail Replacement on Lone Star LS-13

Post by pizzacutter »

I saw a thread where MfoxChicago posted that he was trying to find a source for replacement rub rail for a Lone Star LS-13 sailboat he was restoring. Anybody know if he found a source, or would anyone have a source you can advise me? I tried a lot of boat supply houses in Florida to no avail..am really in need of this. I have photos of a piece of the old rub rail I am trying to replace, in case anyone wants to see a photo. If need to discuss, 410-213-1000.
Michael Edwards
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Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:21 pm

rub rail

Post by Michael Edwards »

Hello all,
this is my first post. I machined a rubrail out of mohagany to fit over the hull/ deck joint. I looks nicer and cost less than plastic.
On the floor I may have made a big mistake! Under the plywood was saturated rigid foam. It provided strenghth and flotation. I chopped it out with an ax. My plan is to tape in a new plywood floor with four inch inspection plates, then use pour-a-foam as they probably did originally. The other option I'm considering is to glass in frames, ribs and stringers to provide the stiffness and add a drain plug. I like solution because of the problem with weight gained by all the trapped water.
My point being that you should support the boat well before pulling on that plywood, there is little strenghth in the bilge.
Michael
s/v AnnaDor
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LeatherneckPA
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Post by LeatherneckPA »

Michael, I'd really like to see some pictures of both your rub rail and the hull/deck joint. I like your idea of a mahogany rail.

How was your hull/deck joint held together? I really need to replace my forward bulkhead, my rear bulkhead, and my transom brace. The plywood in those areas is just shot! And I don't have any "good" ideas how to do that if I can't separate hull and deck.

My floorboards are a disgrace. The PO installed 5/4 pressure treated deck boards. His idea of "fitting" them was to notch the outside edges to go around the bilge board housings. I saw an add on here (in the For Sale section) from a guy in CA who had two nice mahogany grills but he had no information on how they went in. His boat was in pieces, just the way he bought it and that's how he was selling it. This fall I plan to pull that PT crap and perhaps build a set of those grills. They looked great and would certainly help evaporation of water.

If I can lift the deck I would like to install plywood reinforcements under the seat edges. I'm a good bit larger than average and this boat is 40 years old. The edges were already cracked and bondoed by the PO. They could use a little extra support.
Iron Mike - Semper Fidelis
Jack of all trades, Master of none
1978 C-22: Believer
Michael Edwards
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Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:21 pm

Post by Michael Edwards »

Iron Mike,
I am deployed to AlUdeid AB, Qatar, so pictures are not possible.
The hull/deck joint is glued wit ureaformaldahyde(sic) foam, so it's not comming apart. You could piece in the panels, or sister them. But the flooring is a bigger concern. The way they were built was to simply tape down the 3/4" floor, then use pour foam to fill the void underneath to strenghthen the bottom and provide flotation. "Bonehead simple".
I would saw the floor lenghth-wise to remove it, use that as a pattern. Allow the foam underneath to dry, then simply replace the floor like the original, except to glass it over to be sure it is water tight. That should last as long as you care.
In my previous post I mentioned adding frames and sringers (because I have already chopped out the rigid foam). This would be necesary to have an open bilge. I think my hull is worth the trouble, plus I like doing glass work. It will decrease the weight and save on material cost. I had new sails made, and plan to paint fot the third time this fall. This time I'll spray it with a two part polyurathane. I'm thinking hunter green with beige white deck and seats. Ultratuff coat on the floor. I am also restoring a '67 Boston Whaler, so the bedliner material is already something I'll have. They will be the same color.
Michael
s/v AnnaDor
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LeatherneckPA
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Post by LeatherneckPA »

Michael thanks for the info. I hope all is well with you in Qatar. At least that should be relatively peaceful.

I was on a trip to FL to visit my Mom, so I haven't answered anything in like two weeks.
Iron Mike - Semper Fidelis
Jack of all trades, Master of none
1978 C-22: Believer
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