Soft spot on C-22 deck

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cjreardon
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 10:20 pm
Location: Central Ohio

Soft spot on C-22 deck

Post by cjreardon »

While I was getting my c-22 cleaned up for winter storage, I noticed a soft spot under my foot between the mast step and the sliding hatch. Has anyone repaired the core in the deck? Any suggestions?

Carl
C-22 MissU
mariner
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 3:33 am
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Post by mariner »

I do not have any personal experience with this however there are a zillion articles out there on how to do it, they all start with cutting out everything and re glassing. I have a spot near a stanchion where the FG has turned a different shade, i was wondering if there was any water dammage but i cannot tell. I am planning on adding ss backing plates at all the through bolt areas, so when i take it apart i will know. My plan was to use a product like "git-rot" if the dammage was not to extensive, the thought of cutting apart the deck frightens me! any one with any experience here? thank you in advance!

http://www.boatlife.com/how-to-git-rot :idea:
1976 - C22
"AnneMarie"
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Windward
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Location: East Tennessee
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Post by Windward »

Can't speak to the C22, but I believe it's the same construction as the C26. If so, then the cabin sides and cabin top are a resin-impregnated honeycomb core, while the side decks are cored with plywood.

Soft spots on the C26 cabin top are common. On Windward, they appeared to be compression/fatigue of the honeycomb core, not water infiltration. You can drill a few test holes to see whether it's wet or dry.

If your honeycomb core's dry, the easiest fix is to drill a number of holes in the deck, taking care not to penetrate the inner shell, then fill with thickened resin (I used epoxy, but polyester would be cheaper and would probably work as well). I go for a mayonnaise or ketchup consistency so that it will flow into voids well. Pump the thickened resin in using a caulking gun and a refillable caulking tube. It can take a surprising amount. If you want to be neat, put blue painter's tape down around the holes so the inevitable overflow will be easier to clean up. Keep lots of paper towels and solvent available. I always wear a decent respirator when working with resins, and of course safety goggles in case the caulk tube fails or the deck spits back some of the resin I just pumped in.

I have a few more areas to deal with, but the ones I've done have remained quite solid and problem free for several years.

Of course, your mileage may vary. As they now say in first aid training, "care for the conditions you find."
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John K
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Location: Shreveport, Louisiana

Post by John K »

Hi guys, I belive Windward is right on the money here. It was a real relief when I found out too, because I was having nightmares of soggy, mildewed, and micro-organism infested wood coring when I found a similar spot. It is almost certainly caused by some sort of compression or "blunt trauma", then the top layer of glass pops back up and creates a void from the delamination. I successfully drilled holes and injected epoxy in one area and need to do the same in the exact same area. Between the sliding hatch and the mast step. The side deck are in fact plywood. i did have some rot under my lifeline stanchions. I removed the stanchions, let it dry out for a couple of months, treated with Smith's CPES, the filled with epoxy, rederilled the holes and rebedded the stanchions with butyl tape. So far, so good. Good luck!
1977 C22: Dog House
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