Hi all
What is everyone using to seal the port lights. I have used a clear acrylic "bath" caulk, but it doesn't seem to do the trick. Eventually, I would like to replace the plexiglass so I don't want a "permanent" solution.
Thanks
Jason
S/V Astraeus
1980 C26
Leaky Port Lights
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EmergencyExit
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2956
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
I fought this for 2 years, and never could get a handle on it just by caulking - after pulling ours and taking them apart I found that the leaks were most likely caused by dirt in the channel that holds the plexi in place. At least on mine you have the metal frame in left and right pieces, then the channel, then the plexi. I had much dirt in there and after a good cleaning, and reassembly the leaks went away. Water can run down the portlight, collect in that joint between the glass and the channel, then it comes. Once that seal is clean and tight no more leaks.
If you decide to take it on, I've got some great tips that I learned the hard way !!
If you decide to take it on, I've got some great tips that I learned the hard way !!
Hi Jason,
I replaced my crazed 1/4" ones with smoked 3/8" Plexiglass and had the aluminum frames anodized Royal Blue also. The 3/8" filled the gap that had been a gasket before. The gasket was bad on all my windows and leaked BAD... Water had worked it's way into the honeycombed part of the topdeck and caused some damage.
Plexiglass is easy to work and fairly inexpensive. I did have trouble finding any in 3/8' and smoked untill I found a local guy in Spokane. Everyone else wanted to sell me whole 4x8 sheets! $$$
My frames were one piece and to get the windows out the frames got all bent outta shape. I used 3 different wood clamps (from Home Depot) at the same time to put them back in. I'd be happy to share tips also when your ready! Doing it the hard way wastes time and $. I had to pull my first window out twice before getting it right...
Billy
I replaced my crazed 1/4" ones with smoked 3/8" Plexiglass and had the aluminum frames anodized Royal Blue also. The 3/8" filled the gap that had been a gasket before. The gasket was bad on all my windows and leaked BAD... Water had worked it's way into the honeycombed part of the topdeck and caused some damage.
Plexiglass is easy to work and fairly inexpensive. I did have trouble finding any in 3/8' and smoked untill I found a local guy in Spokane. Everyone else wanted to sell me whole 4x8 sheets! $$$
My frames were one piece and to get the windows out the frames got all bent outta shape. I used 3 different wood clamps (from Home Depot) at the same time to put them back in. I'd be happy to share tips also when your ready! Doing it the hard way wastes time and $. I had to pull my first window out twice before getting it right...
Billy
-
EmergencyExit
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2956
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
I thought I had posted my tips on EE's site, but didn't so I'll share here for now.
Before removing frames, draw a pencil line around them on the cabin. Mark the location of the joint between the 2 halves, top and bottom. You want to put them exactly back where they where. Number/label the darn things- both the frames and the left right parts of each frame- trust me.
To pry them out, get as wide a paint scraper as you can - even better find one of those 12" wide taping knives used to spread joint compound on drywall. This will cut down on bending them up. Billy and I both can tell you it is no fun flattening one back out, esp if you have lots of wavy places because you used a narrow tool.
Careful pulling the 2 frame sections apart, they will warp and stretch if you get rowdy with them. That gasket can really grip. Go slow.
When replacing them, mask off the cabin area around your pencil marks. This will make it easier to clean up any sealant that squeezes out during replacement. Trust me it is easier to run a blade around the frames then pull off the tape than to scrape the excess off the cabin.
Also if you are in a climate that get really hot fast in the day, and then cools rapidly at night, you may want to shy away from dark plexi - it may tend to expand more due to absorbing heat quickly then cool fast at night and shrink. Can cause more leaks. I used clear on EE, and then cut some very thin dark plexi that clips on the inside of the windows for when I want shade. The orange and the blue logo'd home stores both had it in reasonable size sheets.
Hope this helps ! Billy, jump in and add more from what you learned as well !
Beau
Before removing frames, draw a pencil line around them on the cabin. Mark the location of the joint between the 2 halves, top and bottom. You want to put them exactly back where they where. Number/label the darn things- both the frames and the left right parts of each frame- trust me.
To pry them out, get as wide a paint scraper as you can - even better find one of those 12" wide taping knives used to spread joint compound on drywall. This will cut down on bending them up. Billy and I both can tell you it is no fun flattening one back out, esp if you have lots of wavy places because you used a narrow tool.
Careful pulling the 2 frame sections apart, they will warp and stretch if you get rowdy with them. That gasket can really grip. Go slow.
When replacing them, mask off the cabin area around your pencil marks. This will make it easier to clean up any sealant that squeezes out during replacement. Trust me it is easier to run a blade around the frames then pull off the tape than to scrape the excess off the cabin.
Also if you are in a climate that get really hot fast in the day, and then cools rapidly at night, you may want to shy away from dark plexi - it may tend to expand more due to absorbing heat quickly then cool fast at night and shrink. Can cause more leaks. I used clear on EE, and then cut some very thin dark plexi that clips on the inside of the windows for when I want shade. The orange and the blue logo'd home stores both had it in reasonable size sheets.
Hope this helps ! Billy, jump in and add more from what you learned as well !
Beau
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mjt
Ports
I might be nuts, but I decided to replace my ports on my C-22 altogether. I purchased self bailing ports that open and have screens to keep out the bugs.
I'm having to partially fill in the existing port openings in the deck and I'm using a fiberglass sheet material (frequently used for circuit boards, etc) to sort of sandwhich in the areas I filled and to strengthen things.
I'll have to take some pictures.
Mike
I'm having to partially fill in the existing port openings in the deck and I'm using a fiberglass sheet material (frequently used for circuit boards, etc) to sort of sandwhich in the areas I filled and to strengthen things.
I'll have to take some pictures.
Mike
Mike,
I almost went all new windows like those also. Would like to see picts when ya can.
Jason,
Good advice from Beau. I marked all mine also, where you couldn't see it I made some scratch marks. The anodizing didn't let me just tag them. Each window frame was drilled differently tho, so getting them in later didn't make much differance, they fit on only one window on the hull. But, having them tagged made it quicker getting things laid out.
My frames were 2 pieces, an outer one in the hull with the window in it, and an inner one that screwed from the inside and holds them in place. The clamps had a groove I Dremmeled into them to help hold the frame and keep it from popping off. This groove has to be near the tip of the clamp to get the frame started into the hull later. 2 people will make getting these on a lot eaiser as you snug up.
I also put some small cut to length nails into the screw holes to keep the window centered in the frame as it closed up. The windows were cut using the old ones as a template and didn't fit totally snug in there, so centering was important for my fit.
I used the 3 clamps in a sequence, starting from the rounded ends first, then the straight parts. This seemed to squeeze the frame back to shape the best and close the gap at the seem. If you do it slow, the grooved clamps should hold the frame, hopefully they don't pop and lose the silicone seal. That was the tricky part for me. Just when I was ready to slip them into the hull, pop, and I'd had to start all over or risk a leak later on... Yes I'd pull the window out, clean and reseal the whole frame with silicone again... Once I figured it out the other windows went in easier, but that first one was a pain!
My sweety also helped hold the window in place from the outside while I was inside to start the screws and snug things up. Don't forget about the nails in there keeping the window lined up, they were pulled just before the screw went in.
I put some picts on my site here:
http://naturalbornflyerz.com/chrysler_2 ... ations.htm
Hope this makes sense...
Billy
I almost went all new windows like those also. Would like to see picts when ya can.
Jason,
Good advice from Beau. I marked all mine also, where you couldn't see it I made some scratch marks. The anodizing didn't let me just tag them. Each window frame was drilled differently tho, so getting them in later didn't make much differance, they fit on only one window on the hull. But, having them tagged made it quicker getting things laid out.
My frames were 2 pieces, an outer one in the hull with the window in it, and an inner one that screwed from the inside and holds them in place. The clamps had a groove I Dremmeled into them to help hold the frame and keep it from popping off. This groove has to be near the tip of the clamp to get the frame started into the hull later. 2 people will make getting these on a lot eaiser as you snug up.
I also put some small cut to length nails into the screw holes to keep the window centered in the frame as it closed up. The windows were cut using the old ones as a template and didn't fit totally snug in there, so centering was important for my fit.
I used the 3 clamps in a sequence, starting from the rounded ends first, then the straight parts. This seemed to squeeze the frame back to shape the best and close the gap at the seem. If you do it slow, the grooved clamps should hold the frame, hopefully they don't pop and lose the silicone seal. That was the tricky part for me. Just when I was ready to slip them into the hull, pop, and I'd had to start all over or risk a leak later on... Yes I'd pull the window out, clean and reseal the whole frame with silicone again... Once I figured it out the other windows went in easier, but that first one was a pain!
My sweety also helped hold the window in place from the outside while I was inside to start the screws and snug things up. Don't forget about the nails in there keeping the window lined up, they were pulled just before the screw went in.
I put some picts on my site here:
http://naturalbornflyerz.com/chrysler_2 ... ations.htm
Hope this makes sense...
Billy