Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Overhaul... an anchor by any other name.
Overhaul... an anchor by any other name.
As I recall I've seen little conversation concerning our little friend that holds us safely in place. After sanding off years of saltwater crust I find I have Donforth S920 14lb anchor, but thats all... no rope, chain or shackles. Would it be a waste of time to try and piece something together or should I just go to West marine, tell them what I've got and buy a ready made setup for this size anchor?
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Well right off the bat I would say it probably is not large enough to be your main anchor.................second I would buy a 3/8 to 1/2 " rode already setup and how ever much chain you need to go with it along with the appropriate shackle and use this one when I need a secondary anchor. There will be some locations and conditions where you can use it as your main anchor and your back will thank you for keeping it around. Just my two cents.
Raises a good follow-on question: What WOULD be a good sized main anchor? How about for a C-22?
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
I use that same anchor as my main anchor and find it just makes the grade with a good current waves and winds blowing fairly strong, even in perfect bottom conditions for this type of anchor. I think you will find yourself using a lot more rode and chain, or dropping a second anchor, to make up for not having one a little heavier when the weather and or conditions are not perfect. The question is do you want to be up on deck during a lightning storm with a long metal chain and mast throwing out that second anchor because you are dragging toward someone else's boat as the boat rocks in 6 ft waves ?
For a 25' boat with 8' of beam, the ABYC suggests the following holding power requirements
15 kt = 150 lbs
30 kt = 490 lbs
42 kt = 980 lbs
60 kt = 1960 lbs
Sizing your working tackle for the 42 kt load is a safe bet. If you're fortunate you won't be anchoring in that kind of wind, but unless the bottom's perfect anchors often won't hold to their rated spec anyway so you'll have a little margin for error there.
Overall rode length is based on the depth you intend to anchor in. You want to have roughly 7:1 scope available (seven times the water depth plus the height of the bow off the water). If you're anchoring in 30' of water and your bow is about 3' up, that means 7 x (30'+3') = 233'. It's not quite that exact a science, but more scope usually means better holding, so in that scenario I'd go with 250' rather than 200'
The conventional wisdom is to start with 10' to 20' of chain. This seems to help the anchor set and provides some protection against sharp things on the bottom. It also increases holding power by introducing catenary -- shock absorbing sag -- to the rode.
980 lbs is a bit above what normal 3/8 is suited for, but it's not out of line to use 3/8 in this application. 1/2" is a more conservative choice, and gives you an extra margin of strength to compensate for chafe and normal degradation over time. 7/16" is about perfect, but is more difficult to find.
You might look on E-Bay for anchor line. You can often find a 600' spool of 3-strand at a reasonable price, although that's usually not of the same quality as New England or Samson's stuff. It's easy enough to do a 3 strand eye splice, and with that much you can practice some, make up a couple of rodes and still have enough left over for some dock lines.
Windward has a 14# Super Hooker, with 20' of 1/4" chain and 300' of 3/8" nylon double braid. This is the cheaper, generic version of the Danforth S920 anchor, made by the same company. Holding power is rated at 740#. Inland it has held me without dragging in winds gusting to 35 kts, and has held me and a Morgan 323 in 20 kt. On the coast it has held me in 20-25kt steady with higher gusts.
On the other hand, I chartered a Pearson 31, equipped with a Danforth S920 and a Danforth Hi-Tensile 12H, on the upper Chesapeake several times. The bottom there was sloppy, stinky mud, and I could never get the S920 to set. The 12H, roughly the same size and weight on less chain, set hard and fast. Slight differences in design can make a big difference. In my book, both were too small for a primary anchor on that boat, although the 12H was fine for the stern or for a secondary.
In sand and most mud, the Danforth pattern (also used in the Fortress) is king. It's a decent bet to consider two different types of anchors so that you can accommodate different bottom types.
At home on Watauga, my primary is: 16.5" Manta claw, 20' 1/4" HT chain, 500' 3/8" Samthane-coated three strand nylon, 5/16" shackle. This seems to set well and quickly on the varied bottom, on short scope if necessary. It has occasionally dragged a bit, but seldom and not far. A friend used one on his Catalina 27, and now on his Catalina 30. For the Cat 30 I'd be using at least a 22, and perhaps a 33#.
On the coast, I use a Danforth 20H instead of the 16.5" Manta as my primary, with 20' chain and 200'-300' of 1/2" three strand. This has never dragged, ever. I sometimes replace the Super Hooker with it on home grounds, using the longer 3/8" rode.
Reserve anchor: 22# Lewmar claw, 30# 1/4" chain, 300' 1/2" three strand nylon. Stowed in stbd settee locker, forward end. Not quite big enough for a true storm anchor... I'd want a 33# if I anticipated a really big blow.
Lunch Hook (usually not aboard): Viking #20, which is like a small Fortress alloy anchor, with 6' of chain and 120' of 3/8" nylon. It holds well in firm sand or mud bottom, but in a significant current or forward motion it tends to plane and may not actually reach the bottom! Small/light enough for a dinghy anchor, too, and light enough to quickly deploy as a kedge if you run aground.
If I were to start over with Windward's tackle, I'd stay with the 20H on the coast, perhaps with a Delta 22 as an alternate, and have a Danforth 12H on the stern. At home I'd swap the 20H out in favor of the Lewmar Claw 22, keeping the 12H.
On Watauga we one had 7 other boats rafted up to Windward, hanging off my 16.5" and 22# claws in the bow and my 20H astern to control swing. A buddy in the Morgan 323 deployed a 33# claw and a 14# Danforth style off the stern. When winds freshened and gusted to 39 that night, my bow anchors did drag a ways, but then set in hard and kept us planted.
15 kt = 150 lbs
30 kt = 490 lbs
42 kt = 980 lbs
60 kt = 1960 lbs
Sizing your working tackle for the 42 kt load is a safe bet. If you're fortunate you won't be anchoring in that kind of wind, but unless the bottom's perfect anchors often won't hold to their rated spec anyway so you'll have a little margin for error there.
Overall rode length is based on the depth you intend to anchor in. You want to have roughly 7:1 scope available (seven times the water depth plus the height of the bow off the water). If you're anchoring in 30' of water and your bow is about 3' up, that means 7 x (30'+3') = 233'. It's not quite that exact a science, but more scope usually means better holding, so in that scenario I'd go with 250' rather than 200'
The conventional wisdom is to start with 10' to 20' of chain. This seems to help the anchor set and provides some protection against sharp things on the bottom. It also increases holding power by introducing catenary -- shock absorbing sag -- to the rode.
980 lbs is a bit above what normal 3/8 is suited for, but it's not out of line to use 3/8 in this application. 1/2" is a more conservative choice, and gives you an extra margin of strength to compensate for chafe and normal degradation over time. 7/16" is about perfect, but is more difficult to find.
You might look on E-Bay for anchor line. You can often find a 600' spool of 3-strand at a reasonable price, although that's usually not of the same quality as New England or Samson's stuff. It's easy enough to do a 3 strand eye splice, and with that much you can practice some, make up a couple of rodes and still have enough left over for some dock lines.
Windward has a 14# Super Hooker, with 20' of 1/4" chain and 300' of 3/8" nylon double braid. This is the cheaper, generic version of the Danforth S920 anchor, made by the same company. Holding power is rated at 740#. Inland it has held me without dragging in winds gusting to 35 kts, and has held me and a Morgan 323 in 20 kt. On the coast it has held me in 20-25kt steady with higher gusts.
On the other hand, I chartered a Pearson 31, equipped with a Danforth S920 and a Danforth Hi-Tensile 12H, on the upper Chesapeake several times. The bottom there was sloppy, stinky mud, and I could never get the S920 to set. The 12H, roughly the same size and weight on less chain, set hard and fast. Slight differences in design can make a big difference. In my book, both were too small for a primary anchor on that boat, although the 12H was fine for the stern or for a secondary.
In sand and most mud, the Danforth pattern (also used in the Fortress) is king. It's a decent bet to consider two different types of anchors so that you can accommodate different bottom types.
At home on Watauga, my primary is: 16.5" Manta claw, 20' 1/4" HT chain, 500' 3/8" Samthane-coated three strand nylon, 5/16" shackle. This seems to set well and quickly on the varied bottom, on short scope if necessary. It has occasionally dragged a bit, but seldom and not far. A friend used one on his Catalina 27, and now on his Catalina 30. For the Cat 30 I'd be using at least a 22, and perhaps a 33#.
On the coast, I use a Danforth 20H instead of the 16.5" Manta as my primary, with 20' chain and 200'-300' of 1/2" three strand. This has never dragged, ever. I sometimes replace the Super Hooker with it on home grounds, using the longer 3/8" rode.
Reserve anchor: 22# Lewmar claw, 30# 1/4" chain, 300' 1/2" three strand nylon. Stowed in stbd settee locker, forward end. Not quite big enough for a true storm anchor... I'd want a 33# if I anticipated a really big blow.
Lunch Hook (usually not aboard): Viking #20, which is like a small Fortress alloy anchor, with 6' of chain and 120' of 3/8" nylon. It holds well in firm sand or mud bottom, but in a significant current or forward motion it tends to plane and may not actually reach the bottom! Small/light enough for a dinghy anchor, too, and light enough to quickly deploy as a kedge if you run aground.
If I were to start over with Windward's tackle, I'd stay with the 20H on the coast, perhaps with a Delta 22 as an alternate, and have a Danforth 12H on the stern. At home I'd swap the 20H out in favor of the Lewmar Claw 22, keeping the 12H.
On Watauga we one had 7 other boats rafted up to Windward, hanging off my 16.5" and 22# claws in the bow and my 20H astern to control swing. A buddy in the Morgan 323 deployed a 33# claw and a 14# Danforth style off the stern. When winds freshened and gusted to 39 that night, my bow anchors did drag a ways, but then set in hard and kept us planted.
Last edited by Windward on Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
Thanks a heap, Jeff! Man, more learnin' to do!
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
On later (1979-1980) models, there was a small anchor locker in the bow. In the 1977-1978 bullet-nosed models, there was no OEM arrangement. The focus was more on "how many berths can we put in this thing?" which also accounts for the lack of a meaningful cockpit locker.
On Windward I keep the stern anchor mounted on a bracket on the pushpit, along with a Sunbrella bag I made for the anchor rode.
On the coast I didn't want the smell of salty swamp muck in the cabin, so used a bracket on the pulpit for the main anchor and kept the rode in a sturdier back lashed to the pulpit and toe rail.
On home grounds I used to keep my working rode in nylon mesh back from WalMart, and stowed it and the anchor in the after starboard settee. I still keep my backup anchor and rode wedged in the far forward end of the starboard settee, where it just fits ahead of the toolbox, drill and fasteners.
The anchor roller and rode locker are some of the most satisfactory projects I've done on Windward
On Windward I keep the stern anchor mounted on a bracket on the pushpit, along with a Sunbrella bag I made for the anchor rode.
On the coast I didn't want the smell of salty swamp muck in the cabin, so used a bracket on the pulpit for the main anchor and kept the rode in a sturdier back lashed to the pulpit and toe rail.
On home grounds I used to keep my working rode in nylon mesh back from WalMart, and stowed it and the anchor in the after starboard settee. I still keep my backup anchor and rode wedged in the far forward end of the starboard settee, where it just fits ahead of the toolbox, drill and fasteners.
The anchor roller and rode locker are some of the most satisfactory projects I've done on Windward
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
Um, strikingly similar to a "bag", only typoed.KeyWest wrote:What's a "back"?
I don't have a good pic of the anchor roller on line just now, but basicallyKeyWest wrote:What's an anchor roller, and did you carve out a rode locker where there was none before? How did you do that?
I started with this
did some significant reinforcing of the hull/deck joint
cut a hole for the chainpipe, drilled for additional cleats and then filled it with epoxy to ensure the deck was sealed
reinforced the deck hardware mounts
to keep all this stuff attached securely (you can see the anchor roller sticking off the bow)
glassed in a frame
and ended up with this
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
Ah Jeff your killing me here!
I LOVE IT.
Now something else to add to my to-do list. Only redeeming thing here is my C-22 V-Birth area might be too small to do it but I'm sure going to measure it out because this looks really nice, convenient and an elegant solution.
Man here I go turning it back into a work boat instead of a sailboat.
Lets see, this springs to do list.
1. Re-seat all portals as they started leaking big time this Winter.
2. Re-seat all deck hardware because Jeff detailed how to do it properly on another post. (I will have a dry Cabin this coming Winter!)
3. Re-wire mast with my new lights. New hinge plate for the Mast while I'm at it.
4. New anchor rod Storage Locker and anchor roller added to the bow.
5. New tri-fold Galley Table.
6. Replace plywood bulkheads in rear of cockpit with PVC Lumber (Summer time project)
7. Repaint Trailer. (Na, I'll wait till Fall for the trailer repainting.)
Keep up the most excellent step by step instructions Jeff. They are fantastic!
Thanks
Alan
I LOVE IT.
Now something else to add to my to-do list. Only redeeming thing here is my C-22 V-Birth area might be too small to do it but I'm sure going to measure it out because this looks really nice, convenient and an elegant solution.Man here I go turning it back into a work boat instead of a sailboat.
Lets see, this springs to do list.
1. Re-seat all portals as they started leaking big time this Winter.
2. Re-seat all deck hardware because Jeff detailed how to do it properly on another post. (I will have a dry Cabin this coming Winter!)
3. Re-wire mast with my new lights. New hinge plate for the Mast while I'm at it.
4. New anchor rod Storage Locker and anchor roller added to the bow.
5. New tri-fold Galley Table.
6. Replace plywood bulkheads in rear of cockpit with PVC Lumber (Summer time project)
7. Repaint Trailer. (Na, I'll wait till Fall for the trailer repainting.)
Keep up the most excellent step by step instructions Jeff. They are fantastic!
Thanks
Alan
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing