What we have here is the starboard deck hull joint exposed after the toe rail removal. After removing years of dirt and grime I touched up a myriad of spider cracks and other minor blemishes with 3M Marine putty. After priming I used Rust-Oleum Topside Oyster White. My first question is this... have others on this forum found secondary screws under their toe rail? You can see two of them in this photo, they run bow to stern fairly evenly spaced. Is this standard or a PO's addition?
In this photo we are looking down at the same location as the first photo. here you can clearly see the 1" groove that runs bow to stern that is mainly covered by the toe rail when it's in place. As I understand its function is for water drainage off the deck. Next question if I go all out on what ever I use to reinstall the toe rail (42... 5200 whatever). Will it hinder this groove's ability to drain off the deck water? One last point, this butyl gray (putty/tape) everyone is giving such high marks for rebedding... could it be a contender for reinstalling the toe rail?
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
The pan head screws hold the hull/deck joint in place until the toe rail is attached. The problem as I see it with the setup is that water wicks its way around the screw and into the plywood batten. As far as the ridge along the deck, I would run a bead of whatever on that ridge, which would help keep water away from the joint. I plan to inject sealant under the screw head before I drive them home.
1978 Chrysler 26 "Maudie Kay"
1984 Catalina 25 "REDUX" (rebuild)
It's better late than never
I can't speak to the screws. Your in deeper then I have looked other then photo's MarioG posted when he split a C-22 in half, Deck off of the hull.
As to the toe rail, I would have a concern sealing the whole thing to the deck. I understand what Sauerleigh is saying and I think he is right about water wicking into the hull through the screws. I need to point out thought that there is a drain hole drilled in the toe rail about 2/3rds of the way from the bow, just under the rub rail mounted in the toe rail.
Several of us have found these very small drain holes by accident. I and others found it by pressure washing the deck. Suddenly a little perfect cylindrical column of water starts shooting out the bottom side of the toe rail from this before un-seen drain. It gets plugged up real easily. I clean it out often now that I know it's there. It's Maybe 1/8" in diameter. Make sure that it stays clear when you seal so it can do it's job of removing whatever water it drains off from the toe rail itself. Maybe enlarging this hole and adding a couple more would be a good idea. Not sure.
Now on my toe rail clearly an attempt was made to seal the top of the toe rail, i.e. underside of the top of the toe rail to the deck. It appears this seal failed long ago as I can put water on the deck and it now drains out that small hole I described above. So clearly water is getting by that silicone some how.
I ran a bead of sealant along the ridge that you described the whole length of the rail jus prior to re installing the rail.Once the rail was tightened down I used a damp sponge to wipe the excess off. The out come is a nice clean seal between the toe rail & deck.
If I had to do it all over again, I would do it the same way.
I have my toe rails off and found the same thing--several screws placed under to toe rail to hold the two halves together until the toerail screws were placed.
Took my toerails off because I believed thats where water was wicking into the boat from. Likely where the water thats filled the foam in the starboard settee as well. I've worked to get as much of the fouled caulk out from between the hull and the deck overlap as possible. Going to cram som polypropalene caulk up in there as far as possible and then run the bead that Tim spoke of under the top and side of the toerail just as I put it back in place.
Thanks for the input guys; my tentative plans are to inject sealant not just under the screw heads, but directly into the screw holes themselves. Nothing along the lines of 5200, perhaps just clear silicone at those points. Alan you are right about the drain holes in the toe rails one every foot or so, they should work better now that all the grime is gone. I'll make sure to run a good bead along the ridge. I'm still curious to hear if anyone has an opinion on using the butyl (putty/tape) in this area?
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Had you not already primed, I'd have suggested you glass over that joint with epoxy and several layers of seam tape, but in this case never mind. She's looking good!
I'll be interested to hear how difficult it is to slide the black vinyl strip into the channel once you reinstall it. I think that I'm going to repaint Windward this summer -- after 7.5 years of exuberant use, the last paint I did is looking pretty lived in -- and if I do I may remove the toe rail and glass the aforementioned hull/deck joint before painting. I'd also do some work on the spider cracks along the starboard deck where the chainplates caused the deck to hog before I reinforced them.
The toe rail has yet to be reinstalled... I submit to your expertise in this matter. Even with things looking good, now that the toe rail is off would I be unwise in the long run not to heed your glassing of the joint suggestion. Also at the Watauga Chrysler gathering (at your convenience of course) I would like to check out Windward with cam. in hand seeing first hand such things as the reinforced chainplates.
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
I mentioned thinking about fiberglassing the seam on a previous post on toe rails. That's gotta be the best way to permanently seal the seam. Only have to worry about the screws holding the toerail from breaching the seal.
Still trying to decide which way to go, so I too am very interested in this discussion, Mr Jeff.
You have a drain hole ever foot or two on the toe rail. I only have 1 drain hole on each side at the low point of the deck if the boat is level, about 2/3rds of the way back from the bow. I was thinking about more drain holes in the toe rail. That sounds like a plan. I think I will add at least 1 more hole on each side 1/3rd of the way back from the bow and another set in the last 1/3rd from the stern.
As for the Butyl, I have no idea about using it. Sounds like a good plan to me. I like the glassing in the seam idea a lot. I await your decision and photos of what you do end up doing though. Might be in the to do list for my C-22 in a year or two.
