Mast Erection ACCY-333-950 Instr.No.13778
Mast Erection ACCY-333-950 Instr.No.13778
Here is what Chrysler had to say about raising the mast of the c22
I found it as a beat up laminated card under the vinyl liner against the hull where the little storage holes are, forward berth, I cleaned it up as much as time would allow, anyway its to good not to pass on....happy labor day weekend! Let me know what you think!
The link below will take you to a site where you can download the .PDF.
http://www.yousendit.com/download/M0Rxc ... RlpFQlE9PQ
I found it as a beat up laminated card under the vinyl liner against the hull where the little storage holes are, forward berth, I cleaned it up as much as time would allow, anyway its to good not to pass on....happy labor day weekend! Let me know what you think!
The link below will take you to a site where you can download the .PDF.
http://www.yousendit.com/download/M0Rxc ... RlpFQlE9PQ
1976 - C22
"AnneMarie"
"AnneMarie"
- 38 special
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- Location: Eau Claire WI
I have the same card but this is for a C22. Does the same apply to a C26? What about bridle placement on the C-26. I took my boat out of the water for the winter today (because the harbour freezes over) and had a near catastrophe lowering the mast. The bridles were not in the right place and binded the process of lowering the mast causing the boom (gin pole) to push the base of the mast out of the cleat about 3/4 of the way down. Any advice?
The earth is 75% water,can you sail?
Basically,
The drawing above could apply to any boat... The trick is having the bridle pivot point, labeled as #9 above, at the same point as the base of the mast. Before you raise or lower you should be able draw a line from one bridle pivot to the other with the mast base in the middle.
If this line is too far aft, the bridles will pull the mast aft as it is lowered and it could pop off the hook, or something else could give if a pivoting mast base is used...
Does that make sense?
The drawing above could apply to any boat... The trick is having the bridle pivot point, labeled as #9 above, at the same point as the base of the mast. Before you raise or lower you should be able draw a line from one bridle pivot to the other with the mast base in the middle.
If this line is too far aft, the bridles will pull the mast aft as it is lowered and it could pop off the hook, or something else could give if a pivoting mast base is used...
Does that make sense?
- 38 special
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:05 pm
- Location: Eau Claire WI
At first glance I though I had a copy of this all cleaned up. But I was of course wrong. This is wholly new to my collection. Outstanding thank you for finding this and posting it.
As an aside I started the planning for mounting my new Mast Hinge Plate today. I will post the whole of my information and steps and photos once I have completed the job.
The hinge plate is from Rigright. Captain Scott (a.k.a. 69shark) turned me on to this as he has put it on all of his C-22's in favor of the OEM hook.
Thanks
Alan
As an aside I started the planning for mounting my new Mast Hinge Plate today. I will post the whole of my information and steps and photos once I have completed the job.
The hinge plate is from Rigright. Captain Scott (a.k.a. 69shark) turned me on to this as he has put it on all of his C-22's in favor of the OEM hook.
Thanks
Alan
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
- CaptainScott
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upload away! you may also want to upload this one....69Shark wrote:Thank you sir!
With your permission, tonight I'll download it, then upload it to our server and post it in our documents section!
I'll even correct the miss spelling of Chrysler 22 from Sunpiper to Sandpiper!
Scott
https://www.yousendit.com/download/M0Ry ... QTAwTVE9PQ
1976 - C22
"AnneMarie"
"AnneMarie"
- LeatherneckPA
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- CaptainScott
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- Location: Washington State
- Contact:
Go to our home page:
http://www.chryslersailors.com/
See tab labled Documents, mouse over it.
Role down to Chrysler with your mouse, then to 22 Sandpiper!
You will see a large list of available documents there!!
Enjoy!
Scott
Hmm, Sounds like I should make a like to it from our forum!
http://www.chryslersailors.com/
See tab labled Documents, mouse over it.
Role down to Chrysler with your mouse, then to 22 Sandpiper!
You will see a large list of available documents there!!
Enjoy!
Scott
Hmm, Sounds like I should make a like to it from our forum!
- LeatherneckPA
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- gregcrawford
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- Location: Knoxville, TN
For encouragement and information for those of you who have not erected their C22 mast yet, I have done this about 10 times now, both up and down. As others have pointed out, the single most important thing is getting the bridles correctly located.
Using someone's bridle dimensions from here on the forum, I had two stainless steel cable bridles made up which were connected to the boat by 3/16" quicklinks bought at Lowe's.
The first time I raised the mast, I had gone to considerable trouble to splice custom non stretchy lines for the steadying lines from mast to bridles and boom to mast. This was a mistake! If the eye of the bridle is not perfectly aligned with the pivot point of the mast on the mast base, the steadying lines will either go taut or slack. In the middle of raising the mast, one of my (thankfully thin) lines snapped. This made for a very interesting episode as the mast slipped out of the hook and all heck broke loose. No major damage or injuries. I substituted a ratchet strap and proceeded carefully.
The next time, when I lowered it in the fall, I used all ratchet straps. I had to tighten some and loosen others as the mast was lowered. Using the main sheet with the cam lock, I was able to leave the mast suspended at various stages to work the ratchet straps. This worked much better, along with moving the bridles around before hand to try to find the pivot point.
The next season, I purchased a mast pivot base, well worth the money. Thinking that the stays looked slack enough to allow for the added thickness of the pivot until I could get it all standing and adjust it was a mistake! If you buy a pivot, lengthen all stays 5/8" or so before you even start to raise it. I bent my pivot's top plate downward a good 1/8", not even considering the strain on the chainplates and shrouds. I was not able to pin the headstay and had to lay it back down, but the damage was already done. I straightened the pivot plate back out, loosened all the stays, and then everything worked fine. I then readjusted the stays.
I am admitting to these mistakes in hoping that this may help someone else not make them! Long story short, I routinely raise and lower the mast now with no worries. 80% of the time totally by myself. With only me, it takes about an hour and a half from mast strapped down for the road to sails up on the trailer. With experienced help, we can do it in 45 minutes. That is at a deliberate, careful pace. I hope this may help someone.
Using someone's bridle dimensions from here on the forum, I had two stainless steel cable bridles made up which were connected to the boat by 3/16" quicklinks bought at Lowe's.
The first time I raised the mast, I had gone to considerable trouble to splice custom non stretchy lines for the steadying lines from mast to bridles and boom to mast. This was a mistake! If the eye of the bridle is not perfectly aligned with the pivot point of the mast on the mast base, the steadying lines will either go taut or slack. In the middle of raising the mast, one of my (thankfully thin) lines snapped. This made for a very interesting episode as the mast slipped out of the hook and all heck broke loose. No major damage or injuries. I substituted a ratchet strap and proceeded carefully.
The next time, when I lowered it in the fall, I used all ratchet straps. I had to tighten some and loosen others as the mast was lowered. Using the main sheet with the cam lock, I was able to leave the mast suspended at various stages to work the ratchet straps. This worked much better, along with moving the bridles around before hand to try to find the pivot point.
The next season, I purchased a mast pivot base, well worth the money. Thinking that the stays looked slack enough to allow for the added thickness of the pivot until I could get it all standing and adjust it was a mistake! If you buy a pivot, lengthen all stays 5/8" or so before you even start to raise it. I bent my pivot's top plate downward a good 1/8", not even considering the strain on the chainplates and shrouds. I was not able to pin the headstay and had to lay it back down, but the damage was already done. I straightened the pivot plate back out, loosened all the stays, and then everything worked fine. I then readjusted the stays.
I am admitting to these mistakes in hoping that this may help someone else not make them! Long story short, I routinely raise and lower the mast now with no worries. 80% of the time totally by myself. With only me, it takes about an hour and a half from mast strapped down for the road to sails up on the trailer. With experienced help, we can do it in 45 minutes. That is at a deliberate, careful pace. I hope this may help someone.
On my C-26 the correct point for the bridles to be is even with the base of the mast and at the center to rear edge of the mast and the lines going to the gin pole and to the mast go through but not tied to the bridle as when the mast comes down the gin pole will become tight and the mast will loosen and I learned this at the college that we all went to "
the school of hard knocks".
the school of hard knocks".
Catch the wind and ride the wave, Have fun
Lyle
1980 C-26 #1100
S/V My Getaway
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34432376@N06/
Lyle
1980 C-26 #1100
S/V My Getaway
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34432376@N06/
- EmergencyExit
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The mast raising intructions for the 26 say to place the bridle ends at the 23rd and 32nd toe rail slots..but more to the point Billy has it perfect. You should be able to run a solid rod thru the bridle eye on on end, have it pass just over the mast step and under the hook and thru the bridle eye on the other side.38 special wrote: What about bridle placement on the C-26.
EE uses a length of chain with quick clips on the ends and at the center..makes it adjustable...