Things to look for when buying a C-26

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amayotte
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Things to look for when buying a C-26

Post by amayotte »

Hey,

Now I'm sure I've seen this topic on the forum somewhere but I just can't find it again, so if anyone knows where it is I will just read it instead of
re-hashing the topic.

I just sold my boat and am now going to go look at a C-26. I'm really excited and I'm kinda bad at just buying things and overlooking the important "small things".

I was hoping someone might be able to give me some good pointers of what to look for and how to check them on a C-26.
I'm particularily interested in how to inspect the winch, cable, keel, and keel bolt.
I will look for hull blisters, delamination, and gel coat cracks and such.
I have no idea how to know if the mast is sound or if the stay wires need changing.


Well thanks for the help ahead of time,

Adam
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EmergencyExit
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Post by EmergencyExit »

Adam, are you looking at a particular one on a trailer, or afloat ?

Or just asking what to look for in general ?
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amayotte
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Post by amayotte »

I'm going to be looking at one on a trailer.

We've actually come to an agreement on a price and everything based on pictures and such. I'm just wondering of some specifics to look for to possibly avoid a real disaster.


Adam
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EmergencyExit
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Post by EmergencyExit »

I guess I'd just go on general condition then. Usual things on any boat - and since it is at least, what 25 years old, you'll probably find some stuff wrong.

Anyway I'll think off the top of the head here, and maybe others can be more specific,

Maybe verify there are no soft spots on the deck anywhere, looks for obvious signs of leakage.

Have a look at the mast step and look for any really bad cracks or signs the mast is really getting pulled into the deck - the post that runs under the mast down the corner of the head bulkhead to the keel isn't that great a piece of wood sometimes, and if compromised would cause deck compression at the mast.

I would have a look at the attach points for the shrouds, be sure the deck is normal under them, not deformed - since the C26 has a bit of a weak termination for those in the cabin, I'd look at both the attach points and the chain plates inside the cabin. Bet you find the small L-Bracket on the starboard side has pulled up just a bit. That wouldn't be a surprise tho.


You can't get much of a look at the keel shoe, but either it is in solid shape or isn't. The keel pin is trapped between the shoe and the hull so no way to see into there. As far as the keel maybe make sure it is actually there, thats about all that could be wrong there, its such a hunk o' iron it ain't going nowhere, but check its condition to give you an idea of how well the boat was maintained

You can raise the table leaves and get your head under there to look at the keel cable and winch.

From personal experience if it has an anchor locker go in the vberth and get a look at the back side of that bulkhead, check for water damage from leaks there.
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ronc98
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Post by ronc98 »

Really anything on a fiberglass boat can be fixed. It really depends upon how much you want to work on it. It is a 30ish year old boat so I doubt you will find a perfect one. It will need some type of work. Working on it however is almost as fun as sailing.

The big things on mine where softspots on the deck around anything that is bolted through the hull.

The keel itself is pretty tough to check unless you have the boat on a hoist.

I would look to see how wet or dry the bilg area is. There seems to have been alot of reports of floor rot around the bilg area due to water. I was luck on mine.
Guillaume C.
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Post by Guillaume C. »

The biggest job I've had to do is replace the plywood around the keel box. Look if the wood of the box/floor is spongy (with a screwdriver while the seller is not with you:P)

My mast got a small depression at the spreader base, you may check for this.

You may be able to get a look at the hull/deck joint in the "room" under the cockpit. You may see if there's a lot of silicone, or if the screw are indeed in wood and not over it.

BTW dont worry about the keel cable itself, it take exactly 2:15 min to change. Proof on video:P
askme233
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no experience, but

Post by askme233 »

I can suggest you avoid boats that are grounded, snapped keel lines, leaking/filled with water, bad bottom condition, missing hardware, rotted wood, no title, bad wiring...

Oh, wait, thats the one I just bought. Never mind. Good Luck!

OT: Where is the video on the keel line? after having replaced the keel line three times in a day, I am now feeling pretty good at it and can do it with only one dive. Would like to see how were supposed to do it.
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Post by Gus »

Pay a professional surveyor. I didn't pay much for my boat, so I went without one, but if I have to dish more than 6k for a boat, I'll probably pay for one.

Gus
1976 Chrysler 22 Halve Maen - Sail # 595
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EmergencyExit
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Post by EmergencyExit »

ASKME233,

Fear not, for I have gone before and blazed that trail ahead of you...
:wink:
Guillaume C.
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Post by Guillaume C. »

Here's the video on cable replacement, please note that it's not very interesting...

1st dive to screw the shakle, 2nd dive to push the cable in the tru-hull

http://home.armourarchive.org/members/g ... e_0001.wmv
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Post by Gus »

dang... swimming in the water in Feb... you make me miss Florida!!! :) Is the boat in good shape? I can see you got the mast up and the sails ready to go too :)

p/s: Question, why didn't you used a piece of garden hose to breath while you dived to replace the wire?

Gus
1976 Chrysler 22 Halve Maen - Sail # 595
Guillaume C.
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Post by Guillaume C. »

Did you tried breathing underwater with a hose? It become too hard to breath at only a few feet deep. I dont know the exact limit tough. but anyway I did not have hose... actually I did not even had a hammer to set the lead to make the cable loop, I made it with an axe on a rock as anvil:P

And I'm not exactly in Florida, here in Quebec it's -20 celcius and we have 3 meters of snow!
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ronc98
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Post by ronc98 »

Bad idea trying to breath underwater with a hose. Even at a few feet of water it becomes a pressure issue. The other major problem is that you do not have enough tidal volume(lung volume) to push out all of your old breath in the hose and you just rebreath what you just breathed. You are good for about two breaths then the amount of CO2 in your breath triggers hyper-ventilation trying to off gas the CO2 in your blood.

I am sure that is more then anyone wanted to know.
askme233
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re:video

Post by askme233 »

ha ha ha: that is real boat pr0n

We ended up redoign the keel line three times at least for various reasons and got it to one dive. but still a pain.

No need for a hose for 10 sec dive. Someone else posetd about a hose with a small compessor on th eother end to give you pressure and then you just breath out through the water, like a free running scuba unit.
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amayotte
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Post by amayotte »

How loud is the keel cable when you get up to hull speed?
Is it loud enough that it starts to annoy some people?

Adam
Guillaume C.
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Post by Guillaume C. »

I have no sound coming from the cable
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amayotte
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Post by amayotte »

Right on.
The main reason I ask is I came across this page
http://chryslersailing.lizards.net/
and under the howto section there is a article on cable hum and a few people say that it can be loud.

but if lots don't have it then no worries.

Adam
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Gus
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Post by Gus »

Cable humming bothers me? Absolutely not, its my knot meter.
1976 Chrysler 22 Halve Maen - Sail # 595
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