Hull To Deck Sealing Video...

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:46 pm

Here is my video of the method I have used to do the hull to deck seal after toerail removal...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V5LrvklbtU&feature=plcp

dennyzen · Post by **dennyzen** » Sun Jul 22, 2012 1:46 pm

Very good description and explanations. This is where I am next, whenever we lose these 100 degree days.

I've gone around once scrapping in the joint. Your video suggests I should do it again, incorporating your excellent hints on scrappers.

I don't think that my hull-deck seam has that much space to use the caulk tip, it is really tight, expecially around the screws that are holding it together. I will probably at least attempt the glue gun previously suggested--the pipe nipple narrowed to a nozzle and the compressor grease gun. I particularly like the metered control--but we'll see what works.

Some questions:

Why 5200 over 4000(4200)?

And do you think you'll be putting a bead on the outside of the joint (above the line formed by the screws that are still in the joint--along the corner where the shoe box lid turns down) to seal the toe rail? Or do you thin that would block those tiny holes in the rubber part that appear to drain it?

Did you have any qualms about cracks and bites on the shoe box lip or along the corner? Any thoughts about strengthening it there?

I tried to fill some of the cracks using just fiberglass paste, but that was a waste of time. A few filled, but mostly I caused bumps and lumps and ended up smoothing it out all along the shoebox top edge and lip to minimize those. So I had to sand--not inside the seam but outside and on top of the deck. I am halfway around on that task.

Also, on mine, there are actually two or three places where there is a prior repair. It looks like some one previously placed some MarineTex --maybe one with fiberglass tape--but it is so narrow, and replaced the two or three screws with actual rivets. I'm not touching those, but I have a couple of other weak looking places.

Looking forward to the sequel!!!

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:50 pm

Dennyzen...I removed all screws before doing any scraping in joint...I marked the location where the screws that are underneath the toerail were before removing them so I could easily locate where they are supposed to go after caulking.

After scraping I had approximately a 1/16 or better space between the shoe box deck lip and the hull and the tip of the 10 ounce tube of 5200 easily slipped up into the joint. The semi-soft caulk tube tip flattens and spreads the lip from the hull. You have to tighten the caulk tip onto the caulk tube so you don't get leakage at the base of the tip...there is some pressure build up. The total job took two and one half 10oz tubes of 5200.

I found that the caulk fills all the void up in the joint, oozing out the empty screw holes and and actually oozing out from the bottom of the joint quite a bit. I took my putty knife with the rounded corner and scraped a cove fillet at the bottom edge of the lip. 5200 is very sticky and messy so I had plenty of rags handy to keep the excess mess to a minimum.

I let the joint cure overnight and put the underneath the toerail screws back in, being careful to not overtighten them...I just tightened them enough to start to compress the joint and cause some caulk to squish out below the lip.

Why did I use 5200??? I wanted this to be the strongest, longest lasting seal so I would never have to do it again. I have a couple of very small chips of gelcoat missing on the edge that I will fill with West System thickened epoxy, otherwise I am not worried about small spider cracking.

I believe that the toerail should have no caulking anywhere on it or under it...I drilled an additional drain hole in the toerail a couple of feet forward of the one existing hole. I think that the water should pass under the toerail and through the inside between the hull and toerail and then drain out the bottom drain hole/holes.

The only evidence for caulking on my toerail is where a previous owner sought to stop leaking in the starboard side of the boat and glopped caulk all over and around the toerail/deck overlap.

dennyzen · Post by **dennyzen** » Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:20 pm

Oh, you did undo the underneath screws. I was afraid that the fit of the shoebox lid might spring or something. But that makes sense.

Thanks for explaining it to me. I'll think about that.

I think I agree that there should not be caulk at the top. My 79 C-22 has more than one drain hole in the rubber part--like four maybe five down the length of each side. If fact, it looks like a very tiny bite was purposely made at the point of each drain hole on the very edge of the hull to create a pathway immediately behind the bottom line of the toe rail. (if that made any sense). I also had a prior owner try to clear silicone caulk along the channel inboard from the corner, the turn of the shoebox lid. I think I got it all, but the cabinet scrapper might be a good trick to use to be sure.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:13 am

WOW!
Maybe you should come to Everett and work on Lady Jo for me??

LOL!

Nice videos!

What do you think of adding all your maintainance videos to our main page? If you are interested, gather a list of what you are willing to let us link to and I can remove what is there and start adding yours . . . .

I think your videos would be a great addition for our main page. Especially the work you are doing!

Scott

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:45 am

Scott...every video of work I have done on the boat would be fine to post.
What do you need from me to make that happen?

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:48 am

A list of working links to each video and a very brief description of what it is.

I can then put them on the front page. I originally just grabbed a few vids from utube but I much prefer the working videos like you are making.

Thanks!
Scott

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:54 pm

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Jul 25, 2012 6:52 am

Thanks Bill!
I have to do the work from home so it will take me a couple of days to get it complete but I will let you know when it is done so you can confirm my work!

I and I'm sure the collective really appreciate your efforts on these videos!

Scott