Chain plate reinforcement

[Guillaume C.]

A few time ago I said I was going to reinforce the chain plate, this is for 2 reason

1- the deck flex when the rig is under tension(the drop board does not fit as well as at "rest")

2- I dont like the hull-deck joint and dont want to fiberglass it

So here's what I came up with, pretty heavy-duty dont you think? it's made of 1,5" x 3/16 stainless flatbar, I dont like the exterior look as the bar is not parallel to the deck (it is parallel to water line) but will try to "camouflage" this by removing the painted line in the portion and write the name of the boat there.

BTW it was pretty time consuming and I would not especially recommend doing it for this reason (took 3-4 days).





Altough the fitting appears to be all the same, each is different to fit the angle of the hull... nothing's square nor flat on a boat...


before polishing

[Banshi]

Well that should surely stop the flexing but why go thru the hull? You had a natural inside corner for the brace to transfer the load to the outer hull. Bolt a small angle to the bunk and you would seem to accomplish the same thing without creating a water intrusion maintenance problem.

[Guillaume C.]

Of course that would be an easier solution but when I removed my floor I found the lamination of the seat to be pretty cheaply made and would not consider them to be very structural. Also a straigh line to transmit force cannot flex while a square can. Then in the "bathroom" you dont have this square, relying on the bulkhead might be enough but they are not much more structural. that said, it would most probably work allright and be simpler, but I wanted something bombproof

As for water intrusion It should not be too problematic, the side of the hull are vertical wich help to let the water goes away, and Ive put a ton of sealer. Should not worry more about them than the 200? other hole in the boat!

[Windward]

I like what you've done there. In fact, it seems you categorically do good work. The Chrysler's chainplates are a joke, and every owner who sails much should consider some sort of reinforcement.

You could get wild and put on an outboard rub strake, running the length of the hull. That would cover the through-bolting and would be great when you dock without a fender board alongside pilings.

Took a different approach with Windward, adding a heavy aluminum angle brace between the drawers and the settee plus some glassed-in knee walls. I first reinforced the hull-deck from the inside using 5200 and some 1/2 x 1/2 wood shims to fill the gap, then glassed the whole thing from the inside using a triangular length of oak as a fillet and covering with epoxy and several layers of seam tape.

I agree that the settees aren't super sturdy, but they are tied in pretty well and Windward doesn't flex there now. My starboard deck had hogged and the gelcoat had some surface cracks due to inadequate chainplate anchoring below. No further damage or flex now, even with a stiffly tuned rig in heavy air.

[ronc98]

Good Idea, and the works looks great. Very impressed.

I toggled bolted another angle to the rear of the seat on both sides for the front support. I figured that was better then nothing.

What you have done should be the final solution. If those give way you have many other issues to worry about.

Good work


Lets see what you did to the motor bracket. That needs some help as well.

[Guillaume C.]

Lets see what you did to the motor bracket. That needs some help as well.

Actually I dont have a transom motor bracket as the PO filled the transom (cheap repair btw) but monday I'll buy the new motor and plan to mount it the original way as I dont like the articulated bracket. Do you think I could lower the original bracket or it was made as low as possible? I have a good deal on a 20" shaft motor, but would have prefered a 25"... (a yamaha T9.9 high thrust)

Tomorow I'll get pics of the backstay bracket, again I directed the forces to the hull instead of deck.