Culmination of 5 years work.
Culmination of 5 years work.
Here is the culmination of 5 years of work on my C22...Scheduled launch, late spring of 2016.
https://youtu.be/Jjrz7L4KGE8
https://youtu.be/Jjrz7L4KGE8
Bill
- CaptainScott
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Nice work Bill, she looks GREAT.
However you may want to hold off on removing the shelf brackets by the companion way, I use these shelf's for all kinds of stuff that need to be convenient to the cockpit while sailing, like camera, air horn, hand bearing compass, suntan lotion, etc.
However you may want to hold off on removing the shelf brackets by the companion way, I use these shelf's for all kinds of stuff that need to be convenient to the cockpit while sailing, like camera, air horn, hand bearing compass, suntan lotion, etc.
H:)ppy Place
78 Chrysler 22
You can go to a Zen Master or you can go Sailing, either way you end up in about the same place..... a Happy Place
78 Chrysler 22
You can go to a Zen Master or you can go Sailing, either way you end up in about the same place..... a Happy Place
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Having once dropped a spinning at warp speed and throttle locked drill perfectly vertically on EE right at the foot of the companionway I can testify that the hull on C26's is solid and a lot thinner than you'd think..Reality wrote:great work. I hope I'm wrong, but you may have a problem with your sonar transducer. I thought I'd read the hulls are a honeycomb rather than solid? Shoot through transducers have problems if it's not solid fiberglass. good luck
- gregcrawford
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Bill: I would definitely keep the shelves. They are the closest thing you can reach from the cockpit. I keep my wallet, cellphone, GPS, binoculars, signal horn- well, you get the idea.
The transducer should work fine. I epoxied mine right next to the keel pocket in the space under the dinette seat along with my battery. It works great there. Yes, the bottom of the hull is solid, and less than 1/4" thick in places.
I just lowered my mast for winter pull out yesterday. I stripped off the sail cover, mainsail, boom, and lowered the mast with bridles that I had made using the dimensions from the documents on the forum. I also use four ratchet straps to control the boom and mast movement. Total time, ready to trailer, was 40 minutes. And this was in the water, not on a trailer.
See pictures of my interior shelf space below. I enclosed both port and starboard with cabinet doors to match my galley.
The transducer should work fine. I epoxied mine right next to the keel pocket in the space under the dinette seat along with my battery. It works great there. Yes, the bottom of the hull is solid, and less than 1/4" thick in places.
I just lowered my mast for winter pull out yesterday. I stripped off the sail cover, mainsail, boom, and lowered the mast with bridles that I had made using the dimensions from the documents on the forum. I also use four ratchet straps to control the boom and mast movement. Total time, ready to trailer, was 40 minutes. And this was in the water, not on a trailer.
See pictures of my interior shelf space below. I enclosed both port and starboard with cabinet doors to match my galley.
- gregcrawford
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the mast hinge. It was pricey, about $100.00 with shipping, but worth every penny. It gives you complete control over the mast. Without it, the mast continues to fall over the rear pushpit rail into the water. I welded on a polyurethane bow roller on my pushpit rail, and this captures the mast while letting me effortlessly pull it forward to lay on the bow pulpit. I take a halyard and wrap/tie the mast to the bow pulpit for transport. The boom goes in the cabin.