IslandHopper wrote:Hopefully will find myself under/near a thunderstorm next time I go out... that's the only way to get any significant wind around here during the summer.
I feel bad for you.
I have been lucky enough to have good wind each time I have gone out. Even Friday when it wasn't so good, I was still having spurts of 5 knots here and there.
Sunday was the best day. Was routinely dunking the leeward side after coming about, hence the need for the bailer. The jug with the bottom cut out serves its purpose, but it's hard to do when I am the only one on the boat.
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
No need ... It's only like that for a few months... and sailing season is year-round down here!
Besides, I can always make the 90 minute drive down to Galveston Bay and have a steady breeze all day long if I want.
Afternoon all. IslandHopper sent me over this way. Looks like you guys have done quite a bit of very nice work on your boats. I've got a Pirateer that is in a state of rebuild right now. I'm stuck on the mast step right now. Do you guys have pictures of yours? I know it's going to be different, but I'm lookling for any ideas I can find. Not much info on the Pirateer out there right now.
The Man-O-War and the Pirateer mast steppings are totally different. The Man-o-War has a sleeve-type mast-deck casting and the Pirateer has a hinged mast step. So, we'd be comparing apples to oranges.
Maybe another person on the forum with a pirateer can chime in to help.
I would suggest starting a new thread with pirateer in the subject line.
Lee
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
Welcome sailracer,
My Manowar came as just a hull only. So had to fabricate the mast, rudder etc. I found good info on woodenboat forum and duckworks magazine online. Some wood boat guys are kind of stuffy ( wont reply re a glass boat) todd bradshaw on the woodenboat and jim michalak on duckworks are knowledgeable. you can search those sites for days, that and some epoxy and youll be all set. We love boat photos also
Does anyone know the thickness of the rudder? My daughter capsized her boat and lost the rudder and tiller assembly. I am making a pattern from the picture with dimensions posted, but need the thickness.
The centerboard is 3/16" aluminum. Is the rudder the same?
Were you the one who left a message on my answering machine? If so, sorry, the darn thing is digital and sometimes doesn't catch everything. All I could gather from the message was Man-o-War and lost rudder. Only got a partial phone number.
Anyway, I don't have my boat within easy access to measure precisely (it's about 4 hours away). However, I believe the rudder and center board are cut from the same material and are the same thickness.
Joe made his own out of wood, so you could get some tips from him.
Lee
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
It was me who called. It seemed like your machine cut me off too early.
I now have all the dimensions for the rudder and will get started soon.
I have an aluminum anchor for my J22, with no chain, just rode. It is extremely light and holds well. It is a fluke style, often called a Danforth, which is the brand name not the style. A smaller size may work well for the Man O War.
I have seen a claw type folding anchor for small boats that the claws fold up for easy storage, but it was only 3lbs. I'm not sure it would hold a C-15 or not.
Lee
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
Many trips around the sun past, for my canoe, I made an anchor just by filling a coffee can with concrete and sinking an eye-bolt (with a nut on it) into it. Worked great. The boat was so light that would hold it in place even in a running stream. The concrete filled to about an inch below the edge of the can, so there was a little bit of "scoop" to dig in on a sandy bottom.
Nowdays, I think I'd use a plastic 1/2 gallon milk jug cut down about halfway. The plastic might give just a bit of protection to the deck when the concrete anchor is dropped on it
That would work for hold, but not practical on a small sailboat. I don't like having anything in the cockpit to get in the way.
I'm looking for an anchor that will stow in the bow cavity while underway and the only one I have found that would be able to do this is the folding grapnel type.
These appear that they will fit through the round portals in the cockpit and be out of the way while sailing.
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
The old Rhodes Bantam I have came with a small anchor, measured 12"x12" folded. Is marked "Benson's Anchor". Apparently it's a blast from the past, as the only info I could find on it was a copy of an ad from 1959.
Sounds like you guys are having too much fun. I'm a Flying Scot sailor but am having problems finding a capable crew to race so I aquired a Man O War that is in decent shape to single hand in competition. I don't know what the Portsmouth handicap is on the boat but it looks like fun. I replaced the winch and got the tadpoles out of the cockpit and gave it a good cleaning. A little PB Blaster loosened up the bailer and although there are cracks in the cockpit the center board trunk seems to be sound. I'll have to look at registering the boat soon here in Alabama. It came from Ohio. I look forward to exchanging information about keeping the boat seaworthy and experiences out on the water.
Fair Winds,
Skyhook
Leeway,
Thanks for the info. I will have to evaluate the sail to see if it will be competitive and if not, order one over the winter to get ready for the '09 racing season. The Tuscaloosa Sailing Club is hosting a regatta this weekend with Mutineers, Bucaneers, coming to participate. There is a Flying Scot fleet here and I will race my Scot but I am looking forward to campaigning the Man-O-War next year. I don't think that Gustav will spoil the party.
Fair Winds,
Skyhook
Skyhook wrote:Leeway,
Thanks for the info. I will have to evaluate the sail to see if it will be competitive and if not, order one over the winter to get ready for the '09 racing season. The Tuscaloosa Sailing Club is hosting a regatta this weekend with Mutineers, Bucaneers, coming to participate. There is a Flying Scot fleet here and I will race my Scot but I am looking forward to campaigning the Man-O-War next year. I don't think that Gustav will spoil the party.
Fair Winds,
Skyhook
I wish there was an open class regatta around my neck of the woods, but I haven't found one yet. I'm not sure if I'm quite ready for racing as I am still a little rough on the rules. However, knowing if there is an open class around here might make me learn the rules a bit faster.
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
I brought my boat back from the lake for repairs and got a chance yesterday to remove the trunk hardware. Overall the wood blocks are in good shape, but there is some minor dry rot.
Since I'm going to bring the rigging back as near to original that I can I plan to replace both pieces of wood and re-glass it. My reasoning is that when I put in the fiddle block with becket I'm essentially putting the load in a single location on the trunk instead of balancing the load distribution in 3 locations as my configuration is right now. To do that I will have to fortify the trunk at both the base and the top.
Joe, I recall back in this thread that you used White Oak to make your trunk repairs. Is the wood type important if I'm going to glass over it?
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
I had been surfing the net on the wooden boat websites I mentioned a while back and they use white oak, western red cedar, larch and several other rot resistant types of wood, including some african and south american species which cost an arm and a leg. A guy I work with gave me some pieces of Oak that his father uses in making staircases and railings. I think you can get similar at the Depot or Lowes, Oak stair treads etc. I epoxied mine but for boats like ours that live on trailers and are covered I don't think that's necessary. Just a spar varnish or exterior paint should do the trick. I had to rebuild the whole trunk and used plywood for that which I epoxied and encased in fibreglass cloth.
Hey All,
Got my trailer registered, lights working etc. I just have to install the new wheel bearings and I'm ready for the road. I broke my rudder last time out and its starting to cool off up here so I think im gonna wrap it up for the season. I put the boat upside on some sawhorses and covered her with a tarp to keep her watertight for the winter. I'm still working on the guy with the Lonestar 16(He thinks its priceless) I think I could sail that later in the year ( less chance of dumping her!) All you lucky warm climate guys enjoy the sailing for us icefisherman.
I also have trailer work to add to my to do list. I was having some odd taillight problems on the last trip back from the lack. Might be as easy as a grounding issue, but we'll see once I dive into it.
Here's my to do list in no particular order.
Fix Trailer Lights
Fix centerboard trunck
Replace existing rigging with a fiddle block w/becket
Install mini-bailer
As I repair the trunk I will need to do some fiberglass work. What brand epoxy resin do you guys use?
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
I bought the man-o-war in June $500. The boat had a huge hole in the bottom, the trailer had no bearings. The next day I had a plan to fix the hole and put the bearings in, and get this boat out sailing. I have raced Kirby 25's for the last 6 years. I bought this boat for my little girl ( 9 ). The plan is to give the boat a complete over haul from top to bottom. I will keep you up to date with pictures. I am starting in Nov. Here is a link to my web sit to see pictures.
Hi,
I recently inherited a Man O War from my aunt who was had never used after she bought it several years ago. It has been sitting outside the whole time and now it needs some work. The centerboard trunk is rotten and needs to be stabilized, the cockpit needs some work, and the stern bumper rail and corners is missing. I have ideas to fix the first two, but have not found a replacement bumper rail.
