More Pictures of a Ship in IRONS
More Pictures of a Ship in IRONS
I have extended my reach of wrath and have decided to redo the entire interior of my boat.
I originally was going to just repair the rotten cockpit sole but I have a nasty habit of not sleeping when I know something is not done right.
I poked around a little more because I wanted to know how water was getting into my bilge over and over...but I poked a little too much I think.
Here is a look at the rotten floor and rotten walls of the keel house.
the walls are made of 3/4 inch fir and are 100% completely soaking wet. I have no idea how. I do know however, that for some reason there is lots of wood in this boat that is simply glassed only 10% and another 90% is left to the elements.
Here is an image of the floor removed and hundreds of pounds of lead shot.
The lead shot is barricaded in by stops so it doesn't spill into the bilge
My dilema now, is how to properly rebuild the floor, and I was hoping for some opinions.
I was thinking of covering the lead shot with some concrete then covering that with another wood floor. The concrete would add some ballast and give the floor something to rest on. The previous floor left a 1 inch gap of air. I could see the gap of air being good for circulation but to be honest nothing in these boats get much air circulation so I don't think it would matter.
One last problem.
When I lifted the floor the bilge was full of water. I have found screw holes going right into the keel house which could account for the rotten wood but I can't see that filling a bilge. Especially not when the bilge stops filing while at anchor.
Short of putting her back in the water does anyone have an idea how I could test for leaks. I already filled the boat as much as I could with a hose but didn't find anything.
Hey has anyone seen windward around I would like to see some pics of his newly built chainplates, or anyone elses, since I'm going to rebuild those soon too.
Thanks,
Adam
I originally was going to just repair the rotten cockpit sole but I have a nasty habit of not sleeping when I know something is not done right.
I poked around a little more because I wanted to know how water was getting into my bilge over and over...but I poked a little too much I think.
Here is a look at the rotten floor and rotten walls of the keel house.
the walls are made of 3/4 inch fir and are 100% completely soaking wet. I have no idea how. I do know however, that for some reason there is lots of wood in this boat that is simply glassed only 10% and another 90% is left to the elements.
Here is an image of the floor removed and hundreds of pounds of lead shot.
The lead shot is barricaded in by stops so it doesn't spill into the bilge
My dilema now, is how to properly rebuild the floor, and I was hoping for some opinions.
I was thinking of covering the lead shot with some concrete then covering that with another wood floor. The concrete would add some ballast and give the floor something to rest on. The previous floor left a 1 inch gap of air. I could see the gap of air being good for circulation but to be honest nothing in these boats get much air circulation so I don't think it would matter.
One last problem.
When I lifted the floor the bilge was full of water. I have found screw holes going right into the keel house which could account for the rotten wood but I can't see that filling a bilge. Especially not when the bilge stops filing while at anchor.
Short of putting her back in the water does anyone have an idea how I could test for leaks. I already filled the boat as much as I could with a hose but didn't find anything.
Hey has anyone seen windward around I would like to see some pics of his newly built chainplates, or anyone elses, since I'm going to rebuild those soon too.
Thanks,
Adam
Last edited by amayotte on Wed May 13, 2009 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Chainplates
Heres a few pics of my new chainplate reinforcements, Ill post the finished pics today at some point so check back...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zakrobinson/
Zak
Pictures of the completed chainplate reinforcements are loaded to the flickr account....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zakrobinson/
Zak
Pictures of the completed chainplate reinforcements are loaded to the flickr account....
Last edited by robinsonzak on Wed May 13, 2009 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
You are not alone!!!
this is all too common on a chrysler . for another take on what you are doing see this article from good old boat magazine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The little job that grew
by Jim CraigheadThe little job that grew: Jim Craighead had a little wet spot around the mast on his Chrysler 26 Swing Keel. The discovery of a delaminated cabin sole led to casting his own lead ballast and much more. Keywords: molten lead, keel casting
Article Number: 2341
Issue: 38-sept/oct 04
Page No: 32-35
Read Online: Not Available Online
___________________________________________
I really need those chainplate reinforcement steps info and pics...how thick was the aluminum plate you were using and was it just a backing plate ( fronting plate?) or was it connected to the chainplate in some way ...thanks keep 'em coming..unreal how they designed a deck-stepped sailboat of our size, sell it as a family cruiser and then send it out the door with that starboard chainplate design.... what where they thinking?
great pics available on this fellow's gallery... great paint job, you got to see his traveller ( won't work on a c-26 though) and is that a mast compression post I see in one of the pics? His oarlocks were discussed in another thread. What did you do with the broken rudder fix? what was your paint steps and products? BTW: really great photography ...you have talent. thanks for sharing...
my cabin sole is soft over the bilge too, I will pull up the carpeting and I hope to get away with just the "EE" fix and decied to just throw some "plasteak" ( read -- crazy insanely overpriced linoleum) down - probably w/o gluing it so I can get a proper teak/holly sole someday.
this is all too common on a chrysler . for another take on what you are doing see this article from good old boat magazine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The little job that grew
by Jim CraigheadThe little job that grew: Jim Craighead had a little wet spot around the mast on his Chrysler 26 Swing Keel. The discovery of a delaminated cabin sole led to casting his own lead ballast and much more. Keywords: molten lead, keel casting
Article Number: 2341
Issue: 38-sept/oct 04
Page No: 32-35
Read Online: Not Available Online
___________________________________________
I really need those chainplate reinforcement steps info and pics...how thick was the aluminum plate you were using and was it just a backing plate ( fronting plate?) or was it connected to the chainplate in some way ...thanks keep 'em coming..unreal how they designed a deck-stepped sailboat of our size, sell it as a family cruiser and then send it out the door with that starboard chainplate design.... what where they thinking?
great pics available on this fellow's gallery... great paint job, you got to see his traveller ( won't work on a c-26 though) and is that a mast compression post I see in one of the pics? His oarlocks were discussed in another thread. What did you do with the broken rudder fix? what was your paint steps and products? BTW: really great photography ...you have talent. thanks for sharing...
my cabin sole is soft over the bilge too, I will pull up the carpeting and I hope to get away with just the "EE" fix and decied to just throw some "plasteak" ( read -- crazy insanely overpriced linoleum) down - probably w/o gluing it so I can get a proper teak/holly sole someday.
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EE only had sole damage over the bilge, around the keel was okay except for a small piece at the rear of the keel stiffener.
I think the reason some soles are rotten is that water gets in that little bilge, then over flows to under the sole and sits there. that If the boat is in the water, that tends to happen by the way the boat sits naturally. I was planning on sealing off the two parts, but then decided if I did that and water got under the sole from the front it couldn't go anywhere and would still rot the sole. So I keep that little bilge very dry.
The C26 in the Good Old Boat article had lead bars encased in a foam pour, and he was able to completely remove all the fill, and rework the stiffeners in full. Would be hard to do that with the lead in concrete. But there also is a great addition the author made under the mast support you might add to the list.
I think the reason some soles are rotten is that water gets in that little bilge, then over flows to under the sole and sits there. that If the boat is in the water, that tends to happen by the way the boat sits naturally. I was planning on sealing off the two parts, but then decided if I did that and water got under the sole from the front it couldn't go anywhere and would still rot the sole. So I keep that little bilge very dry.
The C26 in the Good Old Boat article had lead bars encased in a foam pour, and he was able to completely remove all the fill, and rework the stiffeners in full. Would be hard to do that with the lead in concrete. But there also is a great addition the author made under the mast support you might add to the list.
Not having splashed 'Messing About' yet, I don't know how much water it may (or not) take on, but the bilge was full of water when I picked it up in Feb.
It took about a month to thaw and drain the water in the bilge as it must have been running back from the ballast - I took out about 24 litres of water!. Even now, 3 months later, I'm still drying the port side of the trunk as it seems to be wicking up moisture from the ballast below.
There is no evidence that water has been above the bilge, which it should have been if there was a leak, no matter how small! My floor appears solid and even the trunk sides above the floor are solid too, although I don't know what it may look like down below.
I know what you mean about poorly protected wood in these boats as I've pulled the mush out of the lazerettes and have had to dry out the cockpit and companionway soles!
For those that are following my progress, I test ran the Volvo diesel last week and it started after 3 seconds of cranking and ran great - now that was a happy moment!
It took about a month to thaw and drain the water in the bilge as it must have been running back from the ballast - I took out about 24 litres of water!. Even now, 3 months later, I'm still drying the port side of the trunk as it seems to be wicking up moisture from the ballast below.
There is no evidence that water has been above the bilge, which it should have been if there was a leak, no matter how small! My floor appears solid and even the trunk sides above the floor are solid too, although I don't know what it may look like down below.
I know what you mean about poorly protected wood in these boats as I've pulled the mush out of the lazerettes and have had to dry out the cockpit and companionway soles!
For those that are following my progress, I test ran the Volvo diesel last week and it started after 3 seconds of cranking and ran great - now that was a happy moment!
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Monty, what good fortune with the engine !
Re the chain plates, Guillame did a horizontal version of this. Thread at
http://www.chryslersailors.com/discussi ... hain+plate
Re the chain plates, Guillame did a horizontal version of this. Thread at
http://www.chryslersailors.com/discussi ... hain+plate
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First thing you need to do is get the photo on the internet somewhere.
Shutterfly, photobucket, or your own website are all viable options.
Once you photo is on the internet all you need to do is paste the URL to the photo in a reply here.
After you have pasted in a reply ( or post ) here, look just above the white box where you type your responce or post and you will see a little box with "IMG" . Highlight your url to your photo and then click the box above that says "IMG"
That'll do it!!!
Yeah I know, clear as mud!!
Scott
Shutterfly, photobucket, or your own website are all viable options.
Once you photo is on the internet all you need to do is paste the URL to the photo in a reply here.
After you have pasted in a reply ( or post ) here, look just above the white box where you type your responce or post and you will see a little box with "IMG" . Highlight your url to your photo and then click the box above that says "IMG"
That'll do it!!!
Yeah I know, clear as mud!!
Scott