Chrysler Sailors Forum

I came home yesterday to find my tool shed vandalized, my Mercury 9.9 gone, my trolling motor gone, my pressure washer gone, and to top it off, my 3 fishing rods, GONE, so I'm in the need for a new outboard. Afortunally I have the engine and boat insured, but the NADA value for a Mercury that year its only 500 bucks, minus deductible...

I found this one for sale for about 1500 bucks, and about 300 bucks for the remote throttle. Has anybody tried this particular engine on a Chrysler 22?

Wow Gus, that really sucks, sorry some jerk did you that way.

I have no personal info in that motor. I've got my motor from Craigs list for $350 and it's been exceptional for me.

Alan

Thanks, this is the third time I've been robbed since I moved to NC in 2002, therefore my dislike for central NC. I like the coast, its all right, but I can't vouch for central NC.

Hey Gus Sorry to hear , I did not realize you were that close. I can't tell you how much has been stolen from me since I moved to the central Carolina area. I moved here from NY where I had never had anything stolen from me. I hope everything works out

Same here, I lived in Miami for a long time, I used to leave my house and car open during the night, never had a problem.

WOW! Gus, I'm sorry to hear that. That really sucks big time.

Hopefully the motor you are looking at will be a good one.
Best wishes.

Scott

I probably won't get home for another three weeks but if you are still looking I'll let you knows how it works out. I'm chomping at the bit to get back out on the water.

WOW!
That just sucks. My wife and I had our car broke into on our way to the NC coast. Stayed the night in Raleigh Durham. Maybe it's worse then we think.
Hope you are back on the water soon.

Gus,
I bought the Sailpro 6 for my C22. I found a place locally, Southwest Marine Repair in New Lenox, Il after checking the online prices. Online, you can get the Sailpro for $1350. The dealer gave me a price of over $1700. I asked if he could do better since I can get it for $1350 and he came back with $1340 tax included. So, it can't hurt to ask if they can get close to the online prices.

My boat had in inboard so I needed to mount a bracket so it took me a little longer to get it mounted. One thing I found, was that most mounting bracket mfg say that you need a different bracket for a 4-stroke motor than a 2-stroke. Of course that relates to more money. I bought the Gerlick 71090.

I have used it since I mounted it twice. So far, everything is great. I haven't really stressed the motor since I am following the breakin specs in the owner manual. It seems to move the boat fine at the low speeds that I have used it.
Peter

Hi Peter, thanks for the heads up on the mount. I have a Garelic (I don't know the model) but I was using it with the beefier 75 pounder Mercury 9.9, so I guess it'll work all right. I found that price online with Defender.com (end of summer clearance) and I'm placing a big order with new toys (tiller pilot) and stuff that I need in the boat (like a VHF antenna, new bailing bucket, etc)

Does the engine comes with the high trust prop, right? I look at the photos online and it looks to me that its the other prop, for motorboats, but I could be wrong. Also, does the battery charger come with any kind of plug or do I need to get new ones?

Thanks!

Gus

Gus,
It is supposed to come with the high thrust, mine did not, but the dealer caught it before I picked it up and he changed it. There are some cables, really wires, that come with the motor. It also has a 3 gal gas tank and hoses.

My dealer said the that one of the bigger mounts would probably work fine.
Peter

I have a old Gaerlick 2 stroke mount on my transom, they say not to use it for the much heavier 4 stroke, I do anyway and the 4 stroke bracket is so much more money.. what I DID DO was replace the OEM WOODEN mounting plate with a OEM Gaerlick ( west marine on-line) black poly 4 stroke mounting plate ( much much bigger and stronger) and it seems to be fine... BUT I have to rebed it and replace the wood that is between the mount and the transom so I might just go and upgrade to the proper four stroke bracket if I have the bucks as the bracket has to come off anyway....

curious are you replacing your mercury four stroke with a tohaitsu two stroke?

No, the Mercury was 2 strokes, I'm replacing with a SailPro 4 strokes. I also have the plastic Garelic mounting plate, and I did re-inforced the transom area a couple of years ago.

Thanks!

Gus

the 4 stroke gaerlick is beefier and wider, but I think we will be fine with the 2 stroke version as our four stroke engines are at the lighter end of the four stroke scale... they are much heavier though... curious to know what "high thrust" prop they fit, when you get delivery I'd be curious to know.

also as the four stroke is much heavier , I am also trying to think up some rig that would easily help me lift it on/off the mount.. I really can't manage all that weight safely myself as I di easily with the 2 stroke.. also if you tip a four stroke the wrong way , oil will flood the carb ( and everywhere else BTW) .. don't ask me how I know.

Actually, the Mercury was 75 pounds, and the SailPro its 59 pounds.

Gus

p/s By going lighter, I'm thinking in just bolting the outboard to the bracket and trailer with the motor on the mount (save time at the ramp)

I read online that one of the reasons for needing a 4-stroke bracket was that the 4-stroke outboards were not only heavier but produced more torque. The Garelick is rated to 169lbs and 30hp, which seems like overkill for 59lb 6hp Tohatsu. The Garelick is also pretty hard to use. The springs are very strong and meant for something much heavier.

The Spec for the SailPro prop is Diameter 8.375, Pitch 6 and Blades 3.

Hi Peter!

I got the new SailPro today with UPS, man its LOOOONG It came as promised with the high trust prop and the 3 gallon gas tank. I'll try to set it up today, and at least have it idle in the can with water like I used to do with the old one, but I think I need a bigger mount, they mean it when they say extra long shaft!

Gus

well how long? my long suzuki is 20" with is the longshaft and the Xtra long shaft is 25 inches.... BTW how much below the water should the cavitation plate be anyway? while the xtra lon seemed better at first... it guaranteed I'd be dragging it in the water ( even in the backat up position) while sailing... and a 10" fourblade with 5" pitch and the shaft and the caviattion plate etc. is a hell'va alot of drag so I went fo rthe 20" which up clears the water fine and in the down puts my cavitation plate about 3-4 inches below the water BUT, here is the problem .. it does come out of the water in a chop or a heel... so if there is a chop ... I loose thrust with every wave crest so that means I loose propulsion almost rythmically every 5 secconds or so...very very annoying and noisy. easily can get the faint of heart neausous pretty fast combined with wave action on the boat...

I did see on the web some guy invented a whole new kind of OB mount that slides up/down on rails so it can go very low into the water or very high up on the stern .....OR ANYWHERE IN-BETWEEN, as condition or OB shaft require.... he was trying to get some major manuf. to license his design and was making them himself.... I am thinking maybe fo doing the same... essentially a imagine a stainless tube-type ster ladder w/o rungs that a OB mounting board slides up/down on using the ladders' side rails to slide up/down. you would need a good locking mechanisim to lock the OB in place. His design was rigged with a block and tackle to pull the OB up/down along the rails.


BTW: checked ont he weight of my Four stoke suzuki... 107lbs.. the OEM chysler OB was 80lbs... and the "2 stroke" garelick mount is rated for 118lbs. so I think I am OK, but it is a mystery to me why that extra 20lbs of the four stroke makes it feel so damn much heavier... I would have guessed it weighed 180lbs or so!

It is 25 inches. According to the Garelick mounting instructions, you take the shaft length and subtract 2. Then you place the mount so that the top of the mount is that distance above the waterline. In the case of the SailPro, that is
23 inches. That is the way I did mime and I am experiencing the same problems that you are having with loosing thrust in the waves. At one point, I had my 2 kids, 13 and 16 year old, on the bow as I was coming into
my mooring can. I lost almost all thrust since their weight on the bow was raising the prop out of the water.

I like the idea of the sliding mount.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-main ... acket.html

http://www.igus.com/ApplicationCorner/c ... gboats.asp

here are the links that I found.

also, if you think about it the Garelick mounts don't care how long the shaft is....and they way they tell you to mount it takes away the longershaft advantage.....the only advantage you are left with is that the power head is higher off the water and closer to the cockpit, but the prop is the same depth in the water no matter how long your shaft.... the sliding mount let's you adjust this...

From what I can see, this vertical lift ( Plastic) is $450..

http://www.rhodes22.com/part_order.html

I also did a patent search and found several good ideas for a vertical lift outboard sliding mount.

It seems Garelick just has market share and distribution, not really the best application or product!

The sliding mount has many other advantages, the weight of the motor is closer to the transom , reducing hobby horse at anchor and in seas, the OB can be lifted high and out fo the way for trailering so no need to remove it... not sure how the remote controls would work though..

This is the one I am using and it was fine with my 7.5 honda so it should be ok for my 6 hp. Both are four stroke. I am going to stretch it legs this weekend just not sure where yet.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=835273

"... take the shaft length and subtract 2. Then you place the mount so that the top of the mount is that distance above the waterline. That is the way I did mime and I am experiencing the same problems that you are having with loosing thrust in the waves...."

I think their directions may be for power boats, or in some other case where you're concerned about top end and want to reduce drag while the motor's in use. I disagree with their suggestion. You want your power head where it won't get soused in every wave, but other than that you want the prop as far down as reasonably possible, to avoid exactly the problems you're having.

Case in point, here's Windward sporting the stock motor mount, with the Chrysler Sailor 250 that was made for the boat. Deeeep!



I worked hard to rebuild that mount, which was wildly trashed when Windward came to live with me. When I bought the Tohatsu 9.8 25" shaft last fall (Sailor 250 acting up and a trip to OBX scant days away), I found that no way no how would the motor tip up without hitting the transom. It pained me, but I made up a white trash mounting bracket that worked fine. No pics online just now, but basically some mild 1/4" steel welded into a U and bolted onto the mount. Sets the Tohatsu back maybe 10", and when I tip it forward the lower unit clears the water. Not by much, of course, and I have to add a strap to keep the motor raised when sailing in big waves, but the only time I've cavitated was when I rounded up while motor surfing short, steep chop on the sound at 7 - 8.5 kts. Had it coming there.

just got seriously busy / overwhelmed at work, at home, with my son, and personally, Windward was on a trailer from late Oct until July (too many projects, didn't need another one), and apart from a couple of trips on a friend's boat on Lake St. Clair and a week long charter on the upper Chesapeake, I basically went missing from sailing for a while in favor of damaging connective tissue by backpacking, hiking and running.

Hauling her out again in about a month for a return engagement with Pamlico Sound and the coastal Atlantic. Not looking forward to the few projects that need finished on her before that, nor the requisite work on the borrowed trailer work, but wildly looking forward to getting out in a larger venue once again.

I made that same transom tray repair earlier this year - the entire starboard half of EE's was naught but the skin and air with a bit of fiber from rotted wood inside.

Even as deep as the Sailor 280 sits, it was tempting to take a bit off the top of the tray to gain another inch or so, but I left well enough alone.

The 280 will pop out crossing wakes and such if I'm a low throttle, but at power the motor pushes my transom down and really buries the prop.

when I started.



and took more work than I care to admit to



Ended up with 1.5" of marine ply laminated into the aft portion, overlapping/butted with 3/8" on the sides, gooed together with lotsa pressure, epoxy, woven roving, cloth, seam tape. Just killed me to drill it and bolt on the bubba mount, but apart from the aesthetics it's worked well.

I didn't have as bad a corner break as you, mine was minor, but I did have the same punch out in the center from the outboard clamps/bracket.

Pretty much did the same as you did on Windward it appears.

I did drill a couple weep holes in the tray bottom so maybe it would drain if it ever got water in there again.

The Garelick instructions were for a sailboat, but as I can see, it is not even close to being deep enough. I don't motor much, and as long as I keep most of the weight in the stern, its not too bad, so I am just going to wait until fall. I spent most of the summer with the boat disabled and am trying to make up for lost sailing time.

Happy to report that the SailPro brought me back alive from this past weekend sail. I had my doubts about the engine, but it performed like a champ in very moderate seas.

Things I like: fuel economy, 3 days in the water used less than 6 gallons. It pushes the boat at 5 knots with only 3/4 of the throttle. I can tell the difference with the sailboat prop, backs up much better now. Light, the transom its not all the way down in the water.

Things I don't like: Vibrates like crazy. Greasing fittings got rusted out the first day, along with a couple of spots here and there. The shifter its pretty hard to reach, and the remote box its pretty expensive (500 boat bucks)

Gus

I thought the shifter was flimsy too and it did seem a little loud probably a result of it being just one cylinder but it pushed my boat along at a good pace just above idle. I wonder if a cheaper universal remote would work? I also noticed it was deeper and had less cavitation than my honda meaning the prop was working more efficiently.