Keel Brackets - is this stupid?

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:15 am

I admit I'm a bit intimidated by the keel removal need (discussed earlier on another thread). In order to access the brackets I don't have to move the keel very far. After looking at other sites I came up with a plan that may be too simple. I can't keep the boat at home (covenants) and don't have any boat stands. So...

Step 1: Build a set up on the trailer to hold the keel so it can't shift any direction.
Step 2: Remove the pin from the keel
Step 3: Raise the tongue of the trailer, use the cement block & 4X6 approach to hold the bow elevated.
Step 4: slowly lower the trailer tongue to allow the keel to exit the pocket. Best case is that it doesn't have to come all the way out of the pocket. Clean and paint the exposed part of the keel while here, and check/change/re-seal/??? the brackets.

The boat will still be resting on the back rollers. My hope is that I can simply raise the tongue after repairs to put the keel back in the slot and it will all line up. Of course, for something like this I want he tires chocked and, after lowering the tongue, block the tongue & back of the trailer so they can't move.

OK, what have I missed?

surveywaters · Post by **surveywaters** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:17 am

I've done something similar with my 21' san juan. I borrowed boat stands and used the trailer jack to lift the boat. First I lowered it all the way and chocked the stern, then I raised it up all the way and chocked the bow and center. I was able to sand repair and paint the hull with the trailer about 1.'5 under the boat. I would think your plan will work just fine. Just make sure you have a spotter to keep you from raising the boat to the point where the keel falls sideways. You may even consider bracing the keel from left and right with 2x4's

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 8:12 am

That should work and is very similar to what I did. I had the extra need to have my trailer go away for the winter so I completely removed it from under Lady Jo. The work I did could have been done without removing the trailer however it would have been much less convenient.

The Chrysler 22 keel can be lowered quite a bit and then moved back out of the way without it coming completely out of the keel trunk. As already stated be dang sure you have someone watching so you do not get the keel to far out of the trunk.

Use common sense and extreme care and you will be amazed at how straightforward it is. Having an extra body or two around just in case is a good idea too.

Take photos so we can see how you do it!!!!
Scott

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:35 pm

Thanks! Yes, the plan is to use 2X4 or whatever so it can not flop to the side on me. I'm thinking I'll paint the part that goes into the pocket while it's accessable as well.

Sounds like it's time to plan again, check & re-check and then execute!

Paul

Jmckamey · Post by **Jmckamey** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:20 am

My keel is sitting on the ground now. I will try to post a pic later so you can see its shape. You will need 13" to clear the keel pocket and the keel will have to be completely clear of the pocket in order to gain access to the brackets. My boat had spent a good amount of time in salt water and the keel pin had to be cut using a sawsall. My brackets are completely useless. Couldn't even remove the pipe cap with a 24" pipe wrench. After I cut the keel pin I could actually remove the jack and the keel just remained in place, had to shake the keel from the back to get it to slide out.(so much marine growth)

As far as using the trailer, just keep in mind that the pivot point will be the wheels and when you begin to lower the tongue the trailer will try to raise the stern again. When this happens the boat will have a tenantency (sp?) to move foward and tilt the blocks you have set under the bow ( ask me how I know). I of coarse have no idea what your trailer looks like, is it possiable to jack the intire trailer and unbolt the axle or other cross member to allow the keel to drop far enough to perform the work? Good luck.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:31 am

FYI, one keel picture coming up............

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:16 am

Hands Down. the prettiest keel!

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:03 pm

Yea, Banshi. I've been all through your web site and love the way yours turned out. Pretty, pretty, pretty!

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:20 pm

Thanks, I seem to enjoy working on it almost as much as sailing it....strangely there is always something else to do.

Latest project.......maintenance on the leading edge of the keel especially the bottom where the crazy skipper continues to find shoals and mysterious objects underwater to run into...........

FYI, after 2 years there is no sign of rust on the keel (amazing considering it was all rust when I pulled it out) not even at the cable shackle or keel pin area. I sail in brackish water but keep the boat on the trailer though I rarely wash it down afterward. The POR 15 seems to do just what it is advertised to do.

John K · Post by **John K** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:23 pm

A POR 15 application is definitely in my future.