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Mast re-wiring info and photos

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:01 pm
by Alanhod

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:33 pm
by mcrandall
Good stuff, Alan!

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:42 pm
by astrorad
Alan...Thanx for the great info....just makes me think....sooooooooooo much to do and sooooo little time....Hee ,Hee

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:54 pm
by lecker68
Alan when you wire mast measure outside mast for where steamer/deck light comes off and allow extra 5" past masthead so you can connect a loom to hold wire so it is not hanging from masthead light.

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 9:56 pm
by Paul
Way to go Alan. In addition to the zip ties, I put my in-mast wiring inside two 10' lengths of wiring loom, taping them together to get 20' length. Just wanted some protection from the sharp, pointy ends of screws from the spreaders up. I also created a strain relief at the top exit point of the mast using a piece of hose clamp so the wire is hanging on that point rather than the installed fixtures. I kinda started from the opposite point. Wired the mast first and now need to get to putting in the 4 pin connector and wiring the boat itself.

One point for me - I know the 4 pin male and female will only fit together one way, but I'd really like some sort of visual so I don't have to try 3 times to get the two parts together.

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:52 am
by mcrandall
Hey Paul!

The connector Alan got is keyed, you can plainly see to pin on one side, and the slot on the other. Easy peasy! :D

Mark

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:19 am
by CaptainScott
Lookin' good Alan!!!
I can not wait to see the new Honu!!

Scott

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:50 pm
by Alanhod
Cool more info from lecker68 and Paul!

7. Add an extra 5" of wire past masthead so you can connect a loom to hold wire so it is not hanging from masthead light.

I'll edit add this to my first posting at the top so everything is all in one place.

Now for my question about it. What is a wire Loom? I will assume a hook of some sort to attach the wires too at the top of the mast so as not to pull on the fixtures... Correct?

Oh and yes the plug/deck connector is Keyed so it is easy to connect without multiple tries. Between the 4 female pins there is a V shaped triangle that only lets you connect the male plug one way. A very well thought out design. Also to connect the wires to Both the Female and male ends of the plug, it has sockets with set screws made of stainless to attach the wires.

Here's a better link with photo of the Deck Plug-in Connector.
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1991-pola ... -connector

Thanks
Alan

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 3:01 pm
by lecker68
Alan a loom is a loop to hold a wire plastic and a screw goes through.and it will hold wire securely so to say squeeze but not cut through insulation. an example for your steaming light and deck light find out where it is and all measurements add 5" pull your say green and white (cut outer insulation and work toward bottom 5" out then remaining wires to masthead) the loom would connect ao the wires you cut below for steaming light and deck light.
If I can answer any more questions just ask or explain where you are stuck and I will help you.

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:01 pm
by Alanhod
Thanks lecker68,

With your description, yes I have seen the wire Loop before. I did not know it's name. Basically a tie down for wire.

And not to worry I always ask when I'm not sure. And I should probably ask when I am sure more often, as that has saved me some pain too :D

Thanks
Alan

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:59 pm
by lecker68
Alan just take your time and lay it out tied to the outside of the mast for where you are going to get into it for steaming and deck do not try to have a joint in masthead light and for your ground you are going to need a leg at your lower light and be sure to solder and shrink tube the ground cut insulation and solder leg in so ground from masthead is in one piece.

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:49 am
by skyking
Alan,

Good Stuff...If the rain ever stops I have a new Steaming / Deck Light to install as well...I like the common ground deal :D

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 2:40 pm
by Rivercruiser
Very good info, Alan.

The wire looms I have worked with have been woven tubes that the full length of wire bundle is run through to protect the wiring from chafing, etc.
Long lengths of heat shrink tubing would work very well in this installation.

I do like the tie wrap inside the mast idea. Is there a minimum size tie-wrap needed to remain effective over years of time? It seems to me that small (light weight) tie wraps would sag and just become a louder bell clapper after many years of rattling around inside a mast. Any thoughts on this?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 2:45 pm
by Alanhod
Wow, another Steamer/Deck light combo going into a C-22. In a few years people are going to start thinking it was an OEM upgrade feature if more of us start putting them on our boats.

I must admit it was not my idea or find. Someone right here on the forum came up with it before me. Captain Scott told me of it first and I think it was Travis here on the forum was the first one I saw installed at about the same time Scott told me so maybe he got the idea from Travis. (May not have been Travis but I think it was. I'm not 100% sure. That age thing is mess'in with my memory again.) :oops:

I suppose if my memory keeps going like this in 5 years I'll be thinking the combo light was an OEM upgrade feature. :lol:

Thanks
Alan

OEM

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 3:49 pm
by mariner
The OEM upgrade path has me laughing, I'm doing the same mast wiring right now also (however Alan has got me beat, i just don't seem to find enough time) I even went so far as getting a new "old stock" steaming/deck light combo because I couldn't find one that I thought "looked right" I got an old version of the forespar combo light that has an aluminum body and mount.
Image

The light was $45

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 5:40 pm
by lecker68
As far as the memory part they say there are 3 signs of senility 1) loss of memory and I forgot the other 2.

Re: OEM

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:57 pm
by Alanhod
mariner wrote:The OEM upgrade path has me laughing, I'm doing the same mast wiring right now also (however Alan has got me beat, i just don't seem to find enough time) I even went so far as getting a new "old stock" steaming/deck light combo because I couldn't find one that I thought "looked right" I got an old version of the forespar combo light that has an aluminum body and mount.
Image
Mariner, that is one nice looking light you got there. Seriously nice looking, I bet that set you back a a few Doubloons.

As for having you beat on time to get stuff dune on the boat. Yup, it's good I bought all these parts before last summer. Well before I got laid off. I looked at my boat log I keep of work that I do on the boat. Since last September 2010 I've spent $13 on my boat. When I was working, I got the parts, but never had time to install them.

My wife was kidding me today saying something like "What you spend on the boat every month..." Then I pointed out only $13 in the last 9 months. I think that is a new record for me and I only spent the $13 last week. I got to get back to work, I'm running out of built up projects and parts for those projects.

I'm pouring on the effort right now because if everything goes right, I'll be out of time for boat projects in the next week or two. Keeping my fingers crossed. :D

Hoping to get the Porthole windows removed, replaced and remounted before the end of the month, once the mast re-wire is done this week. I have the Plexiglass and the sealant but will need to go get some Butyl Rubber (sp.) to make the seals with.

Thanks
Alan

Re: OEM

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 1:13 pm
by skyking
Alan,

I made new portholes two summers ago..luckily the seals were re usable..I just soaked them in hot water w/marine cleaner and used a soft bruch to clean them..

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 12:02 pm
by Alanhod
The old wires are out and the new wires are installed and so is the new anchor light.

Here is the rig I made to thread the nylon lines through the mast when I pulled the old coax out of the mast.
Image

Here is my 2 nylon lines pulled through the mast that I had attached to the coax that got hung up and would not come all the way out of my mast.
Image

Here is the top of the mast where I could not pull any more of the coax out of the mast no matter how hard I pulled and it was stuck fast.
Image

So I pulled the coax back to where I started with it and moved my 2 nylon lines to the top of the mast and pulled the coax out the bottom instead. It got stuck again and would not come out. This time I looked into the bottom of the mast and I could see something large in the way. I got a long screwdriver and a long surgical clamp and pulled this out of my mast.
Image
The Ba$tard had a big coax connector wrapped in black electrical tape half way up the mast and I could not pull it through the little holes. That was what was ringing like a bell inside my mast when my boat rocked! They made a big old clapper for the inside of my mast! CLANG, clang, clang. Yes, no more ringing mast on the Honu!

Happy Day! The new wires are now run through he mast. I still have to remove the old steamer light wires.
Image

Installed the new Anchor light.
Image

Ta-da, Re-wired!

Thanks
Alan

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 2:39 pm
by bearley
Alan,

Thanks for the thorough explanation of this project. Are you not going to replace the co-ax cable and connectors at the same time?

Bob

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 4:25 pm
by skyking
I did the same thing..got the new combo steaming / deck light installed along with fresh wires for the mast..now I need to get a 4 pin connector.

we ahd 1 nice week and now there forcasting rain for the next 10 days... :(

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 5:43 pm
by lecker68
Alan looks good are you going to leave the bell on your boat or run 1 piece of coax?
Tim I know we have the same forecast.

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:07 pm
by mcrandall
Bells no longer required, right?

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:12 pm
by lecker68
Now he needs a horn no more shifting weight port to starboard.

Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:19 pm
by mcrandall
Ha-ha-ha-haa! :D

Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 4:03 pm
by Alanhod
bearley wrote:Alan,

Thanks for the thorough explanation of this project. Are you not going to replace the co-ax cable and connectors at the same time?

Bob
My original thought was that I was going to replace the coax. About a month ago I asked others on the forum for advice on a new antenna, coax and connectors. Consensus seemed to point to it being very little return for a lot of work and a lot more money for little functionality once I was done for my specific sailing conditions.

Apparently a transmitter with an antenna at the top of the mast is excellent of off shore out of sight of land type transmitting and reception. I do sail in Puget Sound but I'm never more than a few miles from shore at any given time which is ideal for a hand held radio for transmitting and receiving and a disadvantage for a mast mounted radio antenna.

It seems a Mast Mounted antenna has a doughnut effect for transmitting and receiving. Meaning that the boat with the high placed antenna sits in the middle of this doughnut that can send and receive a long way off. But close in around the boat is a dead area where you cannot receive signals from boats that are close enough to see and they can't hear you when you are transmitting as well.

I figure 100% of my sailing conditions are covered with my 2 hand held VHF radios as I will never go really off shore in my C-22.

So in the end I chose not to have a boat mounted antenna and radio. I run currently with a hand held radio that I leave on board and keep on at all times when I'm out and about in the boat. I also have a smaller new handheld waterproof VHF radio I keep in my life vest at all times as a backup. Both of these radios have proven to be exceptionally effective for my inshore style sailing.

This being said, I still remounted the old mast mounted antenna on my new aluminum bracket at the top of the mast. It is not wired to anything. It's just because it's always been there, never used, but it is part of the look of my boat in my mind. 8) I looked at my mast without the old antenna and it just looked unfinished, too shot, not pointy enough. I don't know, it just looks better with it up there. Doing nothing as it has never been connected for it's last 3 owners to my knowledge. :)

Thanks
Alan

LED "bulbs"

Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:24 am
by dennyzen
Alan:

It doesn't look like either of those lights you chose are actually LED, so I'm guessing you ordered LED elements to insert. Which place did you find that were satisfatory quality and price? Or correct me if I'm wrong.

I think I'm going to do this same thing: the latest "OEM upgrade".

Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 1:13 pm
by Alanhod
The anchor light is indeed LED that I ordered and installed. The Steamer / Deck light is and standard bulb on the Steamer light same as the OEM was. The deck light portion is a Halogen bulb.

When I ordered it I was expecting a LED bulb in the Steamer portion and a Halogen in the Deck portion. It was not what I got. I have been wrestling with the use of this Steamer Deck light combo I have. I changed out the Bulb in my old OEM Steamer light to LED about a year ago. SO at this moment I still have the real OEM steamer light installed with an upgrade LED bulb and have not done the new Steamer / Deck light combo insulation.

I'm thinking I will wait till I can find and can afford a true LED Steamer / Deck light combo where the Deck light has a covering lens instead of bare blubbed Halogen like the one I have now.

Guess I'll be selling the combo light to buy a better one in the future.

Thanks
Alan

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:30 pm
by mariner
Alanhod wrote:The anchor light is indeed LED that I ordered and installed. The Steamer / Deck light is and standard bulb on the Steamer light same as the OEM was. The deck light portion is a Halogen bulb.

When I ordered it I was expecting a LED bulb in the Steamer portion and a Halogen in the Deck portion. It was not what I got. I have been wrestling with the use of this Steamer Deck light combo I have. I changed out the Bulb in my old OEM Steamer light to LED about a year ago. SO at this moment I still have the real OEM steamer light installed with an upgrade LED bulb and have not done the new Steamer / Deck light combo insulation.

I'm thinking I will wait till I can find and can afford a true LED Steamer / Deck light combo where the Deck light has a covering lens instead of bare blubbed Halogen like the one I have now.

Guess I'll be selling the combo light to buy a better one in the future.

Thanks
Alan
Alan I feel your pain, after much paralysis by analysis I got my combo light and am not 100% satisfied with it either. It seams to me that no one actually makes a well engineered unit out of quality materials and components that doesn't cost 400 bucks or more. I half heartidly thought about custom making some of these.... :shock:

Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:51 am
by Alanhod
Mariner said "Alan I feel your pain, after much paralysis by analysis I got my combo light and am not 100% satisfied with it either. It seams to me that no one actually makes a well engineered unit out of quality materials and components that doesn't cost 400 bucks or more. I half heartidly thought about custom making some of these.... "

Yes I am seriously thinking of making my own as well. One problem though with making my own. I get 2 different qualities of results on these types of custom fabrication jobs. Type 1 "Most Excellent professional looking part" I get this about 30% of the time. Type 2 "The handyman special" you know something from the Red and Green show, a little duck tape could not hurt right? :wink:

No, I'm actually thinking I'll leave the OEM housing as is with the upgraded LED bulb. I will add a separate, store purchased Halogen Deck Spotlight and mount it just under spreader height on the mast. I will not go with the classic "Spot Light, round 1940's headlight look." I'm thinking tapered up the mast. Hmm this could be done with a 2" diameter tube cut at a 45 degree angle with a blub mounted inside pointing down. Make housing seals out of butyl rubber and a Lexan lens. No It would still need a reflector and the heat from the bulb could cook the lens.

If I ever do find something it will have to be in person this time. No more internet ordering from a photo and specs. I'm going to hold it in my hands first before getting another one.

Thanks
Alan