Chrysler Sailors Forum

OK,
lets get a gathering of all experience.
I have removed my rudder from Lady Jo.

The rudder post is a simple aluminium pipe. Yes, original.
However the post is slightly bent. JUst enough so it must be fixed or replaced.

My thoughts are to simply heat the post all around where the bend is and use a couple of 2X4 to sandwich the pipe and bend it back to straight!

Question, does anyone think this will weeken the aluminum in any way?

Next question is has anyone replaced the factory plastic "through hulls" that are used as rudder post supports? IF so, what source and part did you use. I dropped in to the local chandlery and what they have is to small.

These are the last items keeping me from sailing Lady Jo. Once the rudder post is fixed or replaced and the supports are put back in, I can reassemble and float her! Hopefully without leaks this time. YEAH!


Scott

Can't speak from experience but I do know Windward has a what appears to be a fine "how to" here on his site !

That looks just about exactly what I have just removed.

Lady Jo leaked at the rudder post when I test floated her. Now to title and license my trailer I have to get it inspected and properly weighed. I can not weigh the trailer until I get Lady Jo off of it. Only way to get Lady jo off is float her at the marina for a day or two. So . . . . I'm rebuilding the rudder setup.

My PVC parts also came apart during removal.

Silly boats! IF it's not one thing, it's another! LOL!


Thanks EE!
Scott

...lol, maybe you're not the first to read that article and apply it to that boat !!

Yup! Only thing it is missing is the 2" downsizers.

I'm going to double check the diameter of the thru hulls and order up some tomorrow.

Next is either a rebuild or straightening of the rudder post.

I'd prefer to build a new one but since my bride OK'ed the purchase of a guitar, I'm running carefull with cash! LOL!


Scott

My 1975 boat has a bronze thru-hull. The nylon in cockpit was broken. Rudder post was SS and 5" longer than the Alum in the 1976. I'm in process of rebuilding the 1975 rudder assembly to "hopefully" put into 1976 that was broken off - including bottom thru-hull piece. I still hav e to cut/replace one-side of SS of rudder assembly to attached to post. And re-do edges of swing-up rudder.

I machined a nylon insert to fit a bronze through hull and my new stainless rudder post. But when I pulled the old through hull out (plastic), it was in such great shape I rebedded and reinstalled it. I am keeping the bronze one for a spare. Nearly all of the shock load of a rudder strike is transmitted directly to the fiberglass hull, sandwiching the through hull between the boat hull and the rudder post. It would take a good lick to damage the through hull. The 4200 I bedded it with takes up about an eight of an inch all around it and acts like a shock absorber. I hit a submerged object (at the public ramp dock!) at Oriental last year and came to a complete and abrupt stop, but suffered no damage and no leaks. I have more pictures here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/greg ... =community

Our C22 has the same problem as I have read about on many others, the top fitting is slowly falling apart. I have been searching also for that correct bulkhead fitting. Still haven't found anything that is perfect and won't require opening up the holes in the hull and deck to accommodate the new fittings. Closest thing I have found so far is a Hayward pool products bulkhead with slip fittings on both sides. http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/webap ... ResolveSku

It will require a piece of 1 1/2" PVC of the appropriate schedule glued in and the stop shoulder inside the piece machined or ground out to allow the PVC tube to go all the way through. The PVC tube then becomes the unbarbed "barb" fitting for the piece of hose that connects the upper to the lower fitting.
Grainger carries it for $21.77 each http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HAYWAR ... Pid=search

http://www.jehmco.com/html/bulkhead_fittings.html
And another source for the fittings that are considerably less expensive. Not as robust as the Hayward ones but would work fine after the PVC pipe is glued inside.

Bent rudder post, use a sand bag@ the bend an aply forse to bend it streat. When it got bent heat was not a facter, so you should be able to bend it back with out heat

The aluminum is going to be weakened even more than it already is when you rebend it straight. If you straighten it I would add some reinforcing inside the pipe to restrengthen the area. Another piece of pipe that fits snugly inside would work.

Granger website says fitting has "Temp Range 40 To 140 Deg F". How much concern would temp be in say northern climates or even in GA? Especially below freezing while sitting in shallow water at dock?

I don't think the temp would be an issue sitting in the water, the water temp would rarely be low enough to freeze. PVC doesn't fail in fracture mode until probably 20 below zero as a guess.

If you straighten the rudder tube you could anneal it by heating it up evenly and allowing it to cool slowly. Quick cooling gives you hardness, slow cooling relieves stress from bending it.

Just my two cents, Chuck

I can't see that PVC would fail even below freezing unless there was pressure on it. It will never be near it's working pressure as a through hull fitting, the pressure on it is probably immeasurably small.

Banshi wrote:The aluminum is going to be weakened even more than it already is when you rebend it straight. If you straighten it I would add some reinforcing inside the pipe to restrengthen the area. Another piece of pipe that fits snugly inside would work.

That is exactly my concern.
I'm going to get a quote to have a new rudder post and cheek plates made. Hopefully it will be reasonable.

Scott

PVC water pipes freeze and break when above ground, unless protected. Since Chrysler's may be on trailers - and wet - of course maybe not much sailing going on in winter?, that's my concern using just regular PVC, especially after taking apart and seeing stresses on two boats now in which one did crack apart. How much more stress is caused by freeze/thaw cycles?

If you're getting quotes, think about having it made in stainless rather than aluminum. I got a set of cheeks jetted and welded to a post for $200.

Paul