Rudder bearing replacements...

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:43 am

I posted a video of my solution to replacing worn or broken rudder bearings on a C22....the drawings are available as PDF's from me...just send me an email at astrorad1@wi.rr.com and I will gladly forward them to you as an attachment....here is the link to the video on my YouTube channel...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8i_MKp1 ... e=youtu.be

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:11 pm

That is pretty cool!
Nice video. I'm currently looking for a rudder bearing replacement. My rudder got bent, cracked the lower bearing and she leaked. If I do not come up with a reasonable replacement, I will probably follow your example.

If you would like me to post your documents in the dockument section, send me the PDF and I will make them available to all!

Scott

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:49 pm

Scott...Good idea...they are on the way.

mcrandall · Post by **mcrandall** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:15 pm

As always, very nice job Bill!!

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:22 pm

Thanx Mark and Scott...it's just because I am too lazy to type a lot of text and edit/crop pictures...I even leave in the screwups...LOL

turbo1168 · Post by **turbo1168** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:29 pm

Nice job, I'm sure they will last a long time since they are Delrin! Just curious, why did you use NPT for the lower fitting instead of a straight thread? Do you foresee needing to shim the coupling or cut the thread end shorter, otherwise I would think it would be difficult to get the torque correct.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:59 pm

Thanks Bill,
Both documents are now under "Documents", "Chrysler" and then "C22" on our main page!

http://www.chryslersailors.com/

Scott

astrorad · Post by **astrorad** » Wed Feb 22, 2012 6:05 pm

I used NPT because I had access to a large Rigid pipe threading machine and the dies were NPT...the electrical coupling will work fine and I may have to put a spacer washer under it...as far as torque goes, the original thru hull wasn't hard to unscrew and it is mostly held in place by the caulk sealant.
I should have mentioned in my video that when having the part machined, if you are going to thread it yourself, you need to have the machinist leave a large enough piece on what will become the bottom external end so you can chuck it in the machine to perform the threading. You will then return it to machinist for finish cutoff and shaping. That is how I did it...otherwise have machinist thread it for you.
I threaded it myself to somewhat reduce the labor cost.
You should also give your rudder post shaft to the machinist so he/she can fit the internal diameter precisely. I neglected to do that and had to return part with shaft for final fit...cost was additional as they had already bored the hole once. Now they had to setup again to fit it.

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:45 pm

Nicely done Bill!

I like this video instruction/demonstration method you use. I watched your Rudder post leading edge video too. Mine is made of wood and is roughly the same dimensions and shape as your aluminum one you showed.

I wonder if a PVC or some other plastic material would be a good replacement. No corrosion issue and maybe more forgiving in an impact situation. Cheaper to replace if ever hit.

Thanks
Alan