Chrysler Sailors Forum

Has anyone put a mid-ship cleat on a C-26?

I find docking the C-26 in situations where I'm being blown away from the dock to be pretty challenging, in part due to the lack of "vectored thrust".

A little reading and experimentation suggests a line from a mid-ship cleat on the boat to the stern cleat on the dock would be a big help. I'm just thinking about location options, etc.

I've considered the flush mount cleats. You know, the push down flush when not in use! Sure would be nice!

Use oversized backing plates!

Scott

I've considered using this.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=80333

I think that line is called a Spring Line, I use two on my C-26 one on port side an one on starboard side. I have them on the bottom of the handrail post, line tied to a snap that will hock in to the post. No need to add cleats.

I've see folks use there winch for that also, just use the loop end of the dock line around the winch drum.

I think I might just try using a snap hook or carabiner a time or two. Ultimately, I might try something this interesting and economical idea. It also seems like it would spread the load a bit.

http://www.watkinsowners.com/howto/cleat.pdf

I tie up all the time with the spring lines to keep the bow from crashing into the blukhead.. I use Chrysler 20 & 26 method of the base of the lifelines and also use the "movable" block the attaches to the toe rail for the jib sheets, I set my block where I want on the toe rail and then loop my spring line through the block and then back to the winch.. this is actually a better set-up than a cleat... I nead a cleat amidships but space is tight..

I had a chance to experiment with the carabiner last week.

Due to a port tie, our very curved sides and a lot of prop walk from my big 4 blade prop, I found that to get the behavior I want from the boat I need to attach the line almost at the pushpit stanchion. Note that prop walk and wind direction are both pushing the stern away from the dock. This makes the line far to short to use as I intended, while we were coming into our slip.

I use a burst of reverse throttle to stop the boat, and I eventually realized that prop wash over the rudder in reverse was also pushing us away, or at least countering the favorable reverse gear prop walk.

Here is what worked for me, port tie with wind coming from port:
Come at the dock at about a 30 degree angle.
Move tiller to port to bring stern over to the dock.
Simultaneously center the tiller and give a burst of throttle in reverse, moving the tiller to starboard just as she stops.

I had been (foolishly) keeping the tiller to port as I reversed to hit the brakes. It takes a bit of thinking to learn to use our backwards prop/rudder relationship.

I may put some more thought into a method of steering the motor with the tiller.

Interesting... I also use my four stroke 9.9HP mainly for low speed manuevering. it is very tricky.... I had mounted a 4-blade 10" 5 pitch ( mickey mouse ears ) prop for better braking but for some reason it created incredible vibrations all through the hull at any speed... went back tothe OEM 3-blade prop that is smooth as silk... for low speed percision docking I used to hang over the transom and steer the OB and use the twist throttle and shift... it was so damn tricky and dangerous I can't tell you... YOU CAN'T SEE FORWAD if you are hanging over the back of the transom -- among other things.... so I am now going to install remote controls inthe cockpit and lock the OB in fixed positin, problem is that the OB prop wash is BEHIND the rudder blade so you don't get any low speed prop wash to get any steerage.... I wind up single handilng alot and docking is really way too streesful that ruins the whole expereince... wonder if a steerable bow thuster or jet is over kill on a C26????

Bow thruster may be overkill, but it sure would be nice, wouldnt it?

NYCSAILOR wrote:..wonder if a steerable bow thuster or jet is over kill on a C26????

myself..I find overkill is always a wonderful starting point ...

as posted previously, I had been using a block attached to the toe rail.. I am now worried thathis method may be putting too much strain onthe toe rail that I have learned is simply attached by small screws into the deck flange... I have not seen any problems but I worry about it bending or pulling away , even slightly from the decka nd causing leaks...( althought it was posted onthe forum that we should NOT seal the toe rail but let water drain underneath it...) I am back to using the base of the lifeline stanchions but I am not very happy withthat either...