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C22 Electrical

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:15 am
by DVD
On to my last project..electrical or lack there of. Installed new battery, interior light comes on...that's it. "Guest" brand battery switch to Battery 1, Battery 2, All, none..no difference. Take off the switch and surprise, nothing is hooked up to it LOL. So, next I locate the bizarre port cockpit hatch sliding switch which I assume would control on and off of Bow, or Stern, or Masthead light..no effect. Please advise on options! Thanks, DVD

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:59 am
by mcrandall
Tough to help you out with such limited info, DVD. Your set-up is likely different from most of the rest, not much standardization left in boats this old.

Your best bet is to trace out each wire to determine it's load and voltage source. 12-volt DC wire is pretty simple, assuming you have basic electrical knowledge. Don't get overwhelmed, just take one line at a time.

Good luck!

Mark

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:26 am
by CaptainScott
I agree with Mark.

In all my my C22's I've had, the switch in the cockpit port aft lazerette turns on the running lights. A simple switch on the interior lights themselves turn those on. That is it.

You have the rare chance to design your own wiring situation!
Depending on the toys you install will depend on how extensive your system can be!

I have eliminated the switch in the cockpit from my wiring and now use a breaker panel to turn on various items.

Here is my breaker panel and my maon battery switch as they are today

viewtopic.php?t=3150&highlight=electric ... 230fa790f3

The wiring looks pretty complicated but if you realize like Mark said, one wire at a time and the confusion is not bad!

Scott

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:20 am
by EmergencyExit
I promise this is true - EE had no switch for nav lights. If you wanted them you put a fuse in the third from the left hole in that old brown Chrysler fuse panel..

Excellent

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:32 pm
by DVD
Thanks everyone. So not being an EE, I have two white and one red wires going into that little switch box inside the lazzarette. Would connecting red to each white cause the forward and aft lights to come on if the bulbs are good for testing purposes? Or would I blow my battery up instead? LOL

Re: Excellent

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:47 pm
by EmergencyExit
DVD wrote:Thanks everyone. So not being an EE, I have two white and one red wires going into that little switch box inside the lazzarette. Would connecting red to each white cause the forward and aft lights to come on if the bulbs are good for testing purposes? Or would I blow my battery up instead? LOL
Guessing ( to put it mildly) that the red wire goes to the battery, and the two whites wander off to some lights..connecting the red to the whites would be the same as flipping on the switch.

Your best friend in all this will be a small DVM voltmeter that would let you check for connections between point A and point B, as well as to check for voltage. Much safer than jumpering wires to see what happens ! Not that I've never done that, :oops:

Then you could touch one side to the battery ground, and the other to the red wire and see if you have 12 volts. If so turn switch on and move past the switch and check the white wires...got volts there, then repeat at the bulb sockets ! Got no volts there and switch is bad, etc.

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:51 pm
by CaptainScott
Hmm
I bet ee is correct. Red lead is hot to the battery, one white lead powers the for red and green light and the stern white light. The other white wire is likely the steaming light near the top of the mast on front!

Scott

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:55 pm
by mcrandall
Its all just plumbing at a sub-atomic level. Wish we were closer, not that it's difficult, just doesn't lend itself to aural description. A nice basic tutorial is in order here.

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:15 am
by Padiunka
mcrandall: sub atomic plumbing, I couldent have put it better myself.