Chrysler Sailors Forum

My C26 was backed into some shallow water and the rudder snapped.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1088 ... 3356746209

Looking for advice for repair/replacement.

Thanks in advance

Steve

Got one from these folks...

http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/inde ... 1bb40edbf2

Ouch, sorry to hear that. Backed by Cal21 into a bank when backing trailer in to my storage space and did same thing, boy i was heartbroken..
Can't see pic tho, says need permission..

My C22 (not the parts boat) came with a solid HDPE rudder from Idasailer. It's quite the piece of work, and I think the boat would break in half before the rudder. I haven't had it in the water yet, but I'm shooting for the 15th.

Rivercruiser, Thanks for the link. Pictures should now be viewable.

Steve.

ordered new rudder. 5-7 days shipping.

Do I see right ? The rudder is hollow where it broke ? Or was that result of the damage..

Not hollow, just full of rotten wood.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1088 ... 3356746209

Old rudder has 7 bolts and a fist size hole in the center. The new rudder only appears to utilize a single center bolt.

Bent one of the cheek plates. Will need to get that bent back.

Someone else had the rudder with the big "bushing". Copacetic is a '79 and has the single bolt. I wonder if this was an improvement they made shortly before closing up shop.

tgentry wrote:Someone else had the rudder with the big "bushing". Copacetic is a '79 and has the single bolt. I wonder if this was an improvement they made shortly before closing up shop.

LOL, for now, I have one of each, both 79's. Actually made within few months of each other.

EmergencyExit wrote:LOL, for now, I have one of each, both 79's. Actually made within few months of each other.

If my theory is correct the "newer" rudder will be the one with the large hole.

tgentry wrote:

EmergencyExit wrote:LOL, for now, I have one of each, both 79's. Actually made within few months of each other.

If my theory is correct the "newer" rudder will be the one with the large hole.

I'll check the hull numbers when I can and see what I find out !

FWIW: My 78 has the small bolt rudder pivot.

Steve

Here is a little post I posted back in the day when dealing with a seven bolt rudder, I did not see your photo of your broken rudder... but I feel just the section of the rudder under the cheeks has a wooden core. Just to see what they would say ask them if they could modify a new rudder to fit your seven bolt system, in the end I think its a better system than a single bolt.

viewtopic.php?t=1529&highlight=seven+bolt+rudder

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Oday 22' 1973
Old Yellow (for now)

Any suggestions on how I might straighten out that bent cheek plate?

When I bent my cheek plates, I gave the assembly to a buddy that does auto body work. He got it almost straight. He commented, he got to use all his big hammers

As for backing up...I have started flipping my rudder around 180 when reversing. This takes the torque off the tiller from the prop wash and also allows the rudder to kick up if I back into something underwater.

Capt. Bondo wrote:When I bent my cheek plates, I gave the assembly to a buddy that does auto body work. He got it almost straight. He commented, he got to use all his big hammers

As for backing up...I have started flipping my rudder around 180 when reversing. This takes the torque off the tiller from the prop wash and also allows the rudder to kick up if I back into something underwater.

Good thinking! I hadn't thought of that

Whabadoo wrote:Any suggestions on how I might straighten out that bent cheek plate?

Are you going to modify the new rudder from single hole to bushing ? Or mod the cheeks to single hole ?

Thinking that I will go with the single hole at this point. Not sure of the condition of the bushing as I have not taken off the assembly yet and fear that I might not be able to cut out a hole that's not precise enough/sloppy.

I am wondering about how the single hole method should be installed. What bushings/washers/sleeves should be used inside and out of the cheek plates if any?

Do I simply use a SS bolt with a lock washer and call it good?

I use a SS Bolt with a Nylok nut. That way I can tighten down enough to be sure its staying on, but leave enough room for rudder to pivot freely.

I wouldn't cut a chunk out of that pretty new rudder either. Other than maybe drilling new hole and filling the extra holes left in cheeks, don't think there's other mods to make. Can't recall exactly tho..

PS You look like me in some of those pics, standing on blue carpet, greenish short pants, blue Sprerry Halyards and no socks ! Rock on !

So the ring with the three set screws should slide off the rudder post and drop my rudder? Seems to be quite stuck. Might need a bigger hammer.

or am I missing something?

Image added to "Rudder" album.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1088 ... 3356746209

Yes. But go easy. If you ding up the top of post it will be hard to get tiller head back on..also that post/cheek combo is very heavy. And when it does come loose you sure don't want it to fall on you !