Running rigging suggestions?

Frank Wyman · Post by **Frank Wyman** » Mon May 14, 2007 7:01 pm

Replacing running rigging on my new to me (not sailed yet) 77 C2-26. The old ropes are of odd sizes. Can someone tell me what size halyards to buy and where to get best price. Looks to be 7/16 double braid 40 ft per so 80 ft. But that's pretty pricey ar West ...any suggestis appreciated.
Also, what is optimal keel position in moderate 10-15 breezes - 45 degrees? Or further down? Thanks!
Frank
77 C-26

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Wed May 16, 2007 4:31 am

Seems like the original line size from the manual is 3/8". Are your halyards the wire/line combined type or no wire ? If all line ( no wire), you have to take the size of the masthead sheave pulleys into account when going up in line diameter..

As far as price, I'd just google around and see what I come up with, Ebay usually has a few sellers that are reasonable, and will sell direct without the whole bidding thing.

Welcome to the board, look forward to hearing your questions and experiences, too.

Beau

Frank Wyman · Post by **Frank Wyman** » Wed May 16, 2007 5:21 pm

Was gonna do 7/16 - tho considered 3/8 - glad original is 3/8 since cheaper will go with that. Halyard rope connects to wire after sheave. Thanks for reply!

EmergencyExit wrote:Seems like the original line size from the manual is 3/8". Are your halyards the wire/line combined type or no wire ? If all line ( no wire), you have to take the size of the masthead sheave pulleys into account when going up in line diameter..

As far as price, I'd just google around and see what I come up with, Ebay usually has a few sellers that are reasonable, and will sell direct without the whole bidding thing.

Welcome to the board, look forward to hearing your questions and experiences, too.

Beau

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:39 am

I have to replace my running rigging....rope to wire halyards with OEM masthead sheeves.

I would like to purchase these and run them myself. what are the accurate OEM sizes and what is the best method for running these with the mast up... NOTE that the new halyards would have a wire loop with the shackle attached.

STEVE ROYER · Post by **STEVE ROYER** » Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:55 pm

I replaced all my halyards with 3/8" double braid dacron that I found on e-bay.you can find some really good deals on bulk rope

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 6:05 am

Hi Steve,

thanks for your response...I am dealing with the halyard problem right now..

did you have to change your masthead sheaves at all...other threads and my own inpsection advise me that the sheeves are pretty narrow and look like they may not handle rope halyards..

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:24 pm

3/8 seem to be overkill, my trimaran have 3/8 and there's waaayyyy more sail than the chrysler

I have all-rope 1/4 and it work just fine, a 1/4 polyester will resist to 2000 pound. Have anyone measured the tension needed to have a stiff edge? I would be surprised if it's more than 500 pound.

One could also look into dyneema/spectra rope for better performance without wire

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 6:15 am

I would think the 3/8 size is more of a handling issue than strength. I think a 1/4" line under a heavy load would be difficult to handle for all but the strongest hands. The sheets on my Sunfish are 3/8 and they are just tolerable under heavy loads and my hands are large strong and tough as nails ( result of working in the construction industry for 30 years). Not saying it can't be used but I think the average person might suffer some serious rope burns because their hands could not grip the small line.

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 6:53 am

Good point, my sheets are 3/8, and it is obviously for comfort as it is "multiplied" 6 time at the boom, wich give a resistance over 20 000 pound... everything on the boat will be gone before this part fail:P

how to you thighten the halyard? I dont have winch , the best way ive found to far is to include a carabiner in the sheet so I can double or 4x the line to pull it tight

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:09 am

I just run it back through the loop that connects it to the wire halyard to double it up like the manual shows but I like your idea and just happen to have one laying around that needs a home.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:22 am

all I have is the small cleat at the foot of the mast but I don't like putting such stress on that part. I think when i replace the halyard, I will add extra length and run it back to the cockpit throgh some jam cleat.

also here;

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/new-e ... 3-_17.html

tehy spec 8 mm or 3/8" line...don't think it will fit throughthe narrow sheeves.

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 4:53 pm

C-26 uses 5/16" halyard tails, tied to 1/8" wire with a thimble swaged into each end. If you don't care about swapping end for end to even the wear, you could eye splice for neater connection that doesn't hang on things.

Main and jib sheets are 3/8". You could go thinner with a high tech line, but it's harder to get a good grip on.

70' - 75' is enough for jib sheets; I use Salsa, which stretches a little but has good hand and doesn't hockle. I just double mine and do a cow hitch (larks head) to connect to clew -- doesn't tend to hang on shrouds that way, and won't shake loose.

If you still use the 4:1 bridle for the main, 35' - 40' is enough there. I had 5:1 before I added the traveler, so used longer. I use StaSet, and am happy with its performance and cost. In decent air, 5:1 through a ratchet is bare minimum if you like to tweak main a lot heading upwind, and I'd rather have 6:1 option. I tie rather than splice to block so I can go 4:1 or 3:1 in really light air.

Using 5/16" on 3:1 traveler, which I play constantly upwind in heavy air. Could go 1/4" there for less friction, but harder to hold onto. Again, 3:1 is minimal if it's blowing hard, and 4:1 would be nice.

I use a BoomKicker with the vang. Vang is 3/8", 10:1 (5:1 cascaded with a 2:1) and that's barely enough in strong wind, overkill in light. Led aft.

Outhaul uses combination of 3/16" Crystalyne in a 3:1, cascaded to a 2:1 of 1/4" XLS and led aft.

Cunningham is 5/16" StaSet, set up as 3:1 cascade to some Amsteel that goes through the cringle for an effective 6:1. This is also led aft.

Reefing lines are 1/4" StaSet. Could go 5/16", but I'm within spec and since I leave them rigged I don't want the extra weight / windage on the main.

Spin halyard is 1/4" StaSetX, which is acceptable but perhaps a little light. I use 3/16" Ultralight light air sheets and 5/16" StaSet-X Lite heavy air sheets. Tack downhaul is 3/16 Amsteel or similar, spliced into a tail of 5/16" StaSet; that's rigged 2:1 through a ratchet block up front.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:06 am

thanks, comprehensive inventory on the running rig set-up...

what is your traveller set-up....I might do that upgrade this fall.

STEVE ROYER · Post by **STEVE ROYER** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:18 pm

The reason that I went with 3/8" line is comfort and easy handling,it fits the shelves good and I have no problems hoisting sails

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:00 am

Ok,

My OEM mainhalyard is ridiculously short , and teh rope will not go intot he sheeves at all..

I will return teh one I ordered ( 60 '_ ) as I really want a longer tail to reach teh cockpit and a longer wire to serve as a topping lift when the sail is down...

also,

wht lenght is the tail on other main sheets? when rigged, my main sheet fromteh cam cleat into the cock pit seems awfully short ot maybe just 5 feet or so...

Chrysler Sailors Forum

Running rigging suggestions?

Running rigging suggestions?

thanks

C26 halyard tails 5/16, sheets 3/8