Chrysler Sailors Forum

yup, I've done just because of that. I don't have the pictures, but its pretty straight forward. Use a 2 inch PVC pipe.

I have still to inspect my rudder post and seals, but I was wondering if you could replace the rubber hose with a 2in pvc, but do the job without dropping the rudder. Instead, split the pvc lengthwise, and use pvc glue to rejoin after it is in place.

Anyone try that?

Not sure about splitting the pvc,seems to me that seam you would create would be another source for a leak,maybe over time anyway,i have dropped my rubber and post before and its not really a bab job,plus you should check that mushroom shaped bearing and need to drop the rudder to do that.

Drop the rudder, shortcuts in sailing are expensive.

It's funny that you guys are talking about fixing the rudder. I'm just in the process of getting everything together to redo mine.
I know it's not the cheapest way to do this but I'm buying a FRP tube
from Tides Marine.
This tube is glassed into place, resulting in a completely leak free passage
between the hull and cockpit.
The tube has a 1/4" lip allowing UHMW bushing to be placed in the upper and lower section (held in place with a mild resin/microbubble combo and lock collar).

Take a look. I have been dealing with a fellow by the name of John Edson who is really good and knowledgable.

http://www.tidesmarine.com/rudder-port-bearing-g-h.html

Alan,

Mine leaks some also when motoring, up the rudder tube, drains out the scuppers. More weight back there the more water, and I have replaced mine with PVC through hull, hose an clamps.

I do like the idea of the solid tube though, and thought of raising the rudder some even by lengthening the rudder post, someday maybe??? Either way if the tube/post gap isn't tight water can come up it. The FRP tube looks like it may have a snug fit that would help that, and also a rudder post seal that looks like it is sold seperately.

It is a tight nasty lil space to play in, and I did learn, don't ask how, that whatever method you decide, make sure the post is straight through or the boat will turn some all the time!

Billy

Today I removed the rudder and rudder assembly from my recently acquired C22. It was fairly straight forward, except for the bolt going into the upper bushing. It is probably the original bolt, and quickly broke off under very light pressure! I ended up having to drill it out to get the bushing off, and drop the runner assembly. The shaft of the rudder assembly is almost pitted thru, and rudder assembly itself is badly pitted in several places. The whole assembly will have to be replaced, but fortunately my husband can machine the parts and weld it up for me, so the dent in my pocket will be less than if I had to pay someone to do it for me.

I will also have to make a new bracket to attach the tiller to the assembly, since it began to fall apart as I removed the tiller!

Thanks to those who posted the info on the rudder!

Cheers

Alan,

I noticed on the site amayotte gave they advise placing the post in there while things set up.. (installation step 4)...

Sounds good if you don't get any goop on the post as it sets up!

What I did wrong: I didn't do that step, I put the hose on, the 4200, and the bottom PVC through hull from WM didn't line up exactly with the upper unit as the 4200 set up... tryin to pass the post through it was my first clue as it bound up. I had to drill out the inside of the through hull at the proper angle just to get the post down... If I don't mention it to folks they don't really notice it at the helm, so I quit tellin them

'spose another way would be to pre fit the unit, make sure the post is right, make some marks beyond where you'll be workin with the goop to help,, and your set!

Edit to add- Not sure about glassin and PVC, but google may show local places to get some glass/FRP tubing???

"Chrysler Brain Trust"

Alan, I like that. Much more descriptive of what everyone has made here than "Discussion Board" is.

I contacted the vendor mentioned above ..tidewater...they responed right away and were very helpful and advised to use a marine exhaust hose with internal wire instead of a regular automotive water hose...but they said they did not have anything that would work in place of the hose.... I would be concerned a split pvc hose might cause a problem unless you can really really glass/ seal it to death....( which I would love...one less worry -big worry- on the boat) so far I have no leaks at all with the OEM hose but I am nervous and I am trying to think of a emergeny if it does leak... ( duct tape?)

I don't know much about glassing, but from what I have read and have been told...
It's never a good idea to rely on a bond between fiberglass and plastics(PVC, UHMW, etc...)
I don't know how true this is, maybe someone here does?, but you might not want to rely on it, especially in such a crucial place.


Adam

I'd do the glass, but build a glass tunnel with the pvc pipe as the form. Cut the glass longer than the distance from the cockpit floor to the hull, and wide enough to wrap around the pvc and onto itself. With my fiberglass skills, in that cramped space, that would be a messy project for me. Then you only have to depend on the bond between the hull and the glass, and the bond between the glass and the cockpit floor. That would add more support to that part of the cockpit, though mine doesn't seem to need it.

Darin

Partydog's post got me thinking - is there a design reason the rudder tube is a flexible hose as opposed to a solid tube ? I don't see any way (at least on the C26) that having a solid tube hardwired between the cockpit floor and the thruhull could be an issue due to cockpit floor movement tho.