Overhaul... question on Lexan sheets

[hp18carr]

Has anyone used Lexan sheets, bolted or perhaps siliconed to the outside hull over the old porthole cutouts? An old photo of Ronc98's Chrysler 26 under the topic of topside paint is what I'm referring to. I thank I like the look and it sounds less troublesome than reworking all the porthole windows. Any pros or cons on this idea? If someone has done this successfully, measurements or better yet templates would be greatly appreciated. I'll cover any cost that maybe incurred.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)

[John K]

It seems like it would work fine to me. My buddy's Catalina 22 is like that from the factory. Personally I would avoid using silicone though, because it is a sealant, rather that an adhesive. Look more towards 3M 4200 or 5200, especially if you don't intend to drill holes in the polycarbonate and use screws or bolts.

[amayotte]

I replaced my cockpit windows with Lexan and would not do it again.
Even thought Lexan is extremely strong it scratches really easy...weird I know. And on top of that it's bloody expensive stuff.

If I were to do it again I would use tempered glass since it's strong (used as safety glass here in Canada) and doesn't scratch and if it does brake you won't cut your hands off.

My two bits,
Adam

[John K]

It's true, the polycarbonate does scratch easily. You can buff out the scratches rather easily, but I digress. When I did the job, my primary concern was keeping the rain out.

Also, make sure you don't get any solvents, such as acetone or MEK anywhere near the polycarbonate, because it will melt.

[hp18carr]

Thanks for the input guys... it's not carved in stone I'll go this route, but its nice to have options.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora ( for now)

[Banshi]

I don't believe safety/tempered glass or any glass for that matter would work. The stresses are to much for this type of window installation the glass would shatter the first time you hit a big wave or the hull twisted under a heavy load. A good (yes expensive) UV protected plexiglass type of material is the way to go.

[Capt. Bondo]

I would think safety/tempered glass would work as long as you use a enough beding to allow for flex. After all port holes on ships used glass long before polycarbonate came along.
The glass may get spendy also having to have rounded corners cut and polished.
On the C&C's I sail on Superior they come standard with polycarbonate or plexy (not sure what) mounted flush with the deck just beded on place, and they all start to leak in time.
Mounting them flush would be a plus, but that would involve routing a recess in the fiberglass, depending on you knowledge of working with fiberglass

[neptuna51]

yes my news window is in lexan 1 piece te best is two face tape with sicafles aroud the window verry great job i have te drawing shape for my window of c-26

[Banshi]

These windows do not have a support frame like a port hole does that can isolate the glass from the stress, not sure it is worth the risk to experiment out how much insulation it would take to prevent the glass from breaking........how long would it take to get back to shore and get a bad cut stitched up or a shard of glass removed from an eye? Even a loose metal fitting on a stray sheet or halyard slamming into the window could result in tragic consequences.

A material similar to what is used in windshields might be viable but I don't think that stuff is readily available.

[J. Austin]

Neptuna, Wow, is that really your paint job?
Man that looks cool.
And look at that house, it dwarfs a 26' boat thats kinda inpressive.
I gotta see more pics of this boat.

[clair hofmann]

I used automotive safety glass on my 2 Ventures. The windows are about 28" long and 8" high. The shrouds come down about center of the glass. These boats get sailed hard and I have had no problems with cracks due to flexing. No scratches or crazing. I'll consider the same when I get to do the 26
Clair