seacock
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Seacock only on my head's water intake which is below waterline.
Bilge/sink thruhull is above the waterline a bit, I would maybe put one there and keep it closed, but my bilge pump is an autopump. I'm considering changing the bilge thruhull a location to a bit higher above the waterline, then adding a seacock to the sink.
Other than that I have a Signet Marine paddle wheel thru hull, and a Signet Marine dummy plug under the stern berth.
(By the way if you have one of the original Signet thruhulls, you can still purchase the O-Rings and the red cap nut from them. Got rowdy, over-tightened, and broke it-20 bucks)
Bilge/sink thruhull is above the waterline a bit, I would maybe put one there and keep it closed, but my bilge pump is an autopump. I'm considering changing the bilge thruhull a location to a bit higher above the waterline, then adding a seacock to the sink.
Other than that I have a Signet Marine paddle wheel thru hull, and a Signet Marine dummy plug under the stern berth.
(By the way if you have one of the original Signet thruhulls, you can still purchase the O-Rings and the red cap nut from them. Got rowdy, over-tightened, and broke it-20 bucks)
- Windwalker
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I'm guessing the reason there was no original seacock on the sink drain was that the sink itself is well above the water line, and even tho the thruhull gets below the waterline, water wouldn't run uphill to the sink and overflow.
That being said I heard of someone (not a C26 owner) who removed a sink, and did not secure the drain line in the upright position - it fell over and then WAS below the waterline which started a siphon that nearly sank the boat.
Same could happen with a rupture in the line near the thruhull, so a seacock would be a good mod.
When it was weighted down by all those years of barnacles, EE's sink thruhull WAS below the waterline at all times !
That being said I heard of someone (not a C26 owner) who removed a sink, and did not secure the drain line in the upright position - it fell over and then WAS below the waterline which started a siphon that nearly sank the boat.
Same could happen with a rupture in the line near the thruhull, so a seacock would be a good mod.
When it was weighted down by all those years of barnacles, EE's sink thruhull WAS below the waterline at all times !
- thepartydog
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- Location: Crestview Florida
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It takes less then a few hours if you have the parts. This link will tell you everything you need to know.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer
Sink drain should have one but the water intake for the head is below the water line and should be the first one to do. expect to spend around 220 for the 1.5" and 160 for the 3/4"
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer
Sink drain should have one but the water intake for the head is below the water line and should be the first one to do. expect to spend around 220 for the 1.5" and 160 for the 3/4"
THANKS!
great info,
I guess I just reamout the old plastic trhu hull and then put in the new one with lots of 5200 for bedding and maybe some epoxy sealer around the hole in the core for strength.
I have a portapotti so no thru hulls for the head.
but I am MOST concerned about ;
1) the rudder post not leaking
2) my instruments are dead and I really need a depth sounder ( I have a fixed keel 26, so...do I leave teh current old thru hull depth and knotmeter transducers alone and drill new holes for new transducers or somehow try and monkey the new instrumets transducers into the old holes ( why oh why are thesenot std.?) or try and find instrunets with transducers that will fit the old thru hulls perfectly ( near impossible and a lot of work buying and returning) will a in hull depth sounder transducer work with our hull...don't we have some kind of core sandwich which will effect accuracy?
great info,
I guess I just reamout the old plastic trhu hull and then put in the new one with lots of 5200 for bedding and maybe some epoxy sealer around the hole in the core for strength.
I have a portapotti so no thru hulls for the head.
but I am MOST concerned about ;
1) the rudder post not leaking
2) my instruments are dead and I really need a depth sounder ( I have a fixed keel 26, so...do I leave teh current old thru hull depth and knotmeter transducers alone and drill new holes for new transducers or somehow try and monkey the new instrumets transducers into the old holes ( why oh why are thesenot std.?) or try and find instrunets with transducers that will fit the old thru hulls perfectly ( near impossible and a lot of work buying and returning) will a in hull depth sounder transducer work with our hull...don't we have some kind of core sandwich which will effect accuracy?
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Also if you have the old Signet Marine equipment they are still in business, and everything seems to fit the old thru hulls.
I just bought new O-rings for my paddle wheel and dummy plug. Also a red cap nut for the knotmeter, turns out they'll break fairly easily if you put a wrench on them and get zealous about it.
I just bought new O-rings for my paddle wheel and dummy plug. Also a red cap nut for the knotmeter, turns out they'll break fairly easily if you put a wrench on them and get zealous about it.
thanks ron,
thank EE,
I might take you up on that if it is a st-60 since I think I can get a transducer + plug + thruhull for the st-60 on ebay.
But first I will check everything out next week and see if I got the signet equip as per EE and maybe just leave the old stuff alone and go w/an in hulltransducer...any thoughts on placement? under the v-berth? my OEM depth transducer is under the most forward port under seat locker, it is on an angle but outside the hull someome customized a nive wooden fairing to get it to poiint straight down...
thank EE,
I might take you up on that if it is a st-60 since I think I can get a transducer + plug + thruhull for the st-60 on ebay.
But first I will check everything out next week and see if I got the signet equip as per EE and maybe just leave the old stuff alone and go w/an in hulltransducer...any thoughts on placement? under the v-berth? my OEM depth transducer is under the most forward port under seat locker, it is on an angle but outside the hull someome customized a nive wooden fairing to get it to poiint straight down...
Just wanted to follow-up on this thread to get the following info;
1) what is the exact dimensions of the sink thru-hull ( 1-1/4" dia.?)
a) what is the best seacock replacement marelon? also I figure I would have to figure out how to remove 5200 in order to remove the OEM sink thru-hull ( although I think the OEM thru-hull is likely to just crumble with any removal preassure applied..
this is from the catalina parts direct site... seems like a bargain and I would use it with their thru-hull but it is 3/4" ... what size thru-hull do we have in the sink..
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm ... uct_ID=338
2) EE, where did you buy / order, the signet parts?
any other tips for R/R the sink thru-hull, everyone should replace this item with a seacock and I am certain, some board members have.. please share the tips - detaiils.
1) what is the exact dimensions of the sink thru-hull ( 1-1/4" dia.?)
a) what is the best seacock replacement marelon? also I figure I would have to figure out how to remove 5200 in order to remove the OEM sink thru-hull ( although I think the OEM thru-hull is likely to just crumble with any removal preassure applied..
this is from the catalina parts direct site... seems like a bargain and I would use it with their thru-hull but it is 3/4" ... what size thru-hull do we have in the sink..
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm ... uct_ID=338
2) EE, where did you buy / order, the signet parts?
any other tips for R/R the sink thru-hull, everyone should replace this item with a seacock and I am certain, some board members have.. please share the tips - detaiils.
C-26, Fixed Keel # 343
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NYC - from here
http://www.signetmarine.com/products/Si ... ducts.html
SIGNETMARINE
2315 1/2 Artesia Blvd.
Redondo Beach, California 90278
(310) 320-4349
(310) 320-5026 Fax
signetmarine.com
http://www.signetmarine.com/products/Si ... ducts.html
SIGNETMARINE
2315 1/2 Artesia Blvd.
Redondo Beach, California 90278
(310) 320-4349
(310) 320-5026 Fax
signetmarine.com
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
-
hotdot
The sink thru hull is 1-1/2" (on my c26 anyway). I have two below waterline seacocks, both I installed and used Forespar marelon vavles. I really like them; their extremely tough and are not subject to corrosion. I also have 3 thru hulls above the waterline, two cockpit drains and the sink drain. For those I used bronze but no valve. I went with bronze because the u/v rays here in florida does degrade plastic (marelon) over time (8 years). I also like the look of the bronze better. I did replace all of my hoses with premium grade marine hose, 5200'd and double clamped them.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Just my 2 cents worth.
- gregcrawford
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- Location: Knoxville, TN
The through hull on my 1976 C22 was plastic, with a cheesy gold colored plastic valve in the clear vinyl sink drain line. You could wiggle it back and forth with ease. I replaced it with an Apollo bronze triangle base seacock ($35) and a bronze Perko through hull I had laying around (3/4"). There are several good webpages on through hull replacement. I set the seacock on a 1" thick piece of epoxy coated white oak and then through bolted everything through the hull with 4200. The hull will now break out before the seacock will! Then I put a Jabsco washdown pump in that compartment for hosing down the boat, the dock, the dog, etc. The outlet hose runs to the stern into the lazarette where there is a surface mounted hose outlet. I can't wait to try it out! The previous owner trashed the galley. It would have been nice to have it for a pattern for making a new one. Hopefully, the boat will splash in May if I get everything done.