Kick-up rudder

[sauerleigh]

Does anyone know how the rudders were constructed? Looks like two molded halves bonded together. Filled with foam? Seems too light to be plywood core.

[Alanhod]

[gregcrawford]

Yes, it is two halves with a foam core. I holesawed out the rudder pivot hole because it was worn in an oval shape and epoxied in a 2" delrin plug to spread the load a little more. I encountered a structural foam filling.

[sauerleigh]

Thanks gregcrawford
I sanded off most of the bottom paint and it looks like the rudder had a fight with the prop and lost.

[EmergencyExit]

Thanks gregcrawford
I sanded off most of the bottom paint and it looks like the rudder had a fight with the prop and lost.

Say you must be driving a C26 !

I spent a lot of time and effort repairing some gouges in the sides of EE's blade, although I just sealed a missing chunk from the back of it.

Docked one day, pulled up the rudder, tied her off and was walking down the dock wondering what that funny noise was...I'd left the outboard idling in gear, and they were fighting again....

[Banshi]

I put a bolt on mine that won't let the rudder come up high enough to hit the outboard but is still no lower than than the keel when fully retracted, they fight no more

[tgentry]

When I still had the Sailor 280, I found that a small trim adjustment to the motor let the raised rudder clear the motor, just barely. The new trim actually made it more vertical instead of tucking under a bit.

[sauerleigh]

I am trying to remove the rudder post. I removed the tiller pivot but below it there is a collar with three screws, in from the side. I removed the screws and put some penetrating oil around collar but it doesn't want to budge.
Am I on the right track with this?

[hp18carr]

I have yet to remove my collar to remove the rest of my rudder system; my trailer does not give me enough clearance. Spray it down real good and let it sit an hour or two, maybe even over night. I had to do the same thing for my top part... a wood or rubber mallet also comes in handy. Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir, but it worked for me on the top part... no reason it should not work on the collar.



Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)

[EmergencyExit]

You're on the right track. May have to tap the post to get it moving. The assembly is pretty heavy, so once it lets go expect it to drop like a rock if not supported from below...It's good that its tight, its basically your adjustment (or "keeper") for keeping the vertical slop/slack out.

[Paul]

I have two of the top pieces, the collar and the tiller... unfortunately that's all I got witht he boat. Two questions:

1) One of the top pieces may be for a different boat. It is very slightly smaller and has a bolt running through the center of the hole from front to back. If anyone knows what it goes to and needs it - I got one.

2) Nice picture Terrance! I noticed a black something under the ring. What is that so I can find or try and make one.

Thanks

Paul

[hp18carr]

Paul

I take it you are sailing a c26, what you are seeing is part of the upper rudder cup bearing... black from years of dirt. There is a twin bearing at the bottom. Go to E.E's web page he has a nice breakdown of his removed rudder. If you can post some photos of what you have, I'm a firm believer that a picture is worth a 1000 words. Good luck in your endeavors.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)

[Paul]

No, I have a 22. Maybe that's the point of confusion. I thought there might be a phenolic bearing surface for the ring to run on. It would make sense to not have the ring rubbing on the fiberglass.

Paul

[Alanhod]

[Paul]

Thanks for the pix, Alan. I don't seem to have the part with the 4 allen head screws that is undert the ring, but then there's no holes where one was previously. Mine's a '75. Don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Paul

[sauerleigh]

I had to make a puller to get the locking collar off, right up to the end of the tube. I think someone may have used a bit of Loctite around the collar. I was able to lower the tongue on my trailer enough to get the height I needed to remove the tube. The side plates had cracked at some time, just below the rudder tube, stick weld repair, and the starboard plate is badly warped, looks like a job for a torch. The fiberglass tube just above the bottom bearing surface had cracked at some time, looks like they just tried to use some silicon to seal around the hose, this will need to be repaired.
I'm planning an upgrade to the rudder pivot area and a method to adjust the rudder post bushings without needing to pull up on the rudder tube and pushing down on the collar.
Photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/93952888@N ... 885035070/

[hp18carr]

Your fortitude must be sterner than most, it seems no matter what stumbling block your Chrysler throws your way, you just fabricate a new gizmo and carry on. I'm looking forward to seeing how you will get your boat high enough off its trailer to lower the swing keel and perhaps pull the two halves of the shoe and swing keel bolt. What you are doing is no relatively simple overhaul, but more of a total rebuild.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)

[EmergencyExit]

That crack looks very familiar - have a look here
http://my.att.net/p/s/community.dll?ep= ... 294266&ck=