Hey!
seems like I heard about someone talking about refitting the lights on their boat.
I have pulled the bow, stern, and masthead lights, and they're ancient.
I'm planning to rewire, and will use a big Marine 12volt battery I just bought. Anybody know where the best bang for the buck is for:
1. a bow, stern, masthead, LED light set?
2. a basic/ generic electrical panel/ junction box?
I now have a 30 amp trolling motor, need the LED lights and also a cabin light, and then a line for the weather radio (just in case I get hit by all the lightening you guys keep talking about). If I get an expensive radio, I'm sure that it will attract the lightening faster than a cheap one.
Bill
bang for the buck lighting
bang for the buck lighting
We're just about finished with refurbishing our Chrysler 22, she's slipped, and ready for fun!
Lake Quachita, HotSprings Arkansas
Bill Williams
Lake Quachita, HotSprings Arkansas
Bill Williams
Okay, now here is an area where I am really proud of my re-wiring and LED lighting. Note, I do everything on the cheap but I make it to last, so I'm all about the big bang little dollars.
First off LED's will save you time and money even if you pay a little bit more up front for the LED. Besides, LED prices have come down just since I've been at it. Also the LED's pretty much last forever. No need to open things back up and change the bulb. The bulbs also don't care if there is vibration and very little heat given off by the bulbs so you don't cook anything.
I do not sell or am in anyway affiliated with the products I'm talking about in this posting. These are my opinions and experiences as I see them.
Okay I did all new lights on-board and new wiring as follows. Also note I'm no electrician, I expect others to further comment on what I have done. I always get better ideas from the folks on this forum and implement them where and when I can. I'm hoping if there is a Collective, YIKES, over what I have posted here, they will speak up and I will fix my errors on my boat.
I know this is about lights but I'm going to start with the Wiring.
1. 16 gauge 2 wire insulated
2. Solder every wiring connection. My Electrical insulated clips that I do use only there. (No automotive cheap squeeze clamps of doom for me or anywhere else on board. If I find an old one it's cut out and I solder the connection. Your mixing your metals otherwise and asking for a future corroded connection in my mind.) Solder it, seal it, and forget it.
3. Seal your wiring connections after soldering them. I use electrical tape and then heat shrink tubing over that. I've heard of a paint on electrical type wire connection sealer that I've yet to use but sounds good. Then I'd heat shrink over it too instead of using electrical tape.
4. Get a fuse box/circuit breaker to rout everything through. This one was brand new and can from the last owner, it's okay, I like it, I would have gone a little higher end myself but beggars can't be choosers and like I say it works just fine and I will use it for many, many , many more years to come. (Note the cheap crimp type connector on the left side of the circuit panel in the photo, no longer on my boat, thank you very much)
Okay, now Power.
1. Get the largest single deep cycle battery you can afford that will fit. An Electrician with a bad boat addiction told me this. One big battery is better than 2 or more smaller ones. Mine is a 12 volt Deep Cycle Sears Die Hard and again mine came new with the boat and I like it.
2. House the battery in a plastic housing with a lid that can breath. Strap the whole rig to the boat so it won't slide around on a good heel. Mine is located under the cockpit just aft of the keel winch... Other side of the plywood bulkhead from the winch, you don't want any salt water dripping on that puppy from the keel cable going to the winch!
3. I use a single small solar panel mounted inside the port rear window and it has provided 100% of my power since 2009. I would not have believed it but it's never failed me once. I'm going to get one just like it for the starboard side rear portal window. (Sunforce Solar 12 volt Battery Maintainer Item # 50012, 1-800-478-6435 www.sunforceproducts.com) $25
Okay here's the main part, the LED's themselves.
1. Bow light $32, Attwood 3500 Series Stainless Steel, 2NMvisibility, LED Red and Green. This had an identical foot print and look as the OEM Bow light. Even used the same screw holes to mount the new one.
2. Stern light $35, Attwood 5530 LED Anti-Glare All-Round Light, 2NM visibility, It is a removable post about 40" tall and I stow it below in the daytime.
3. The stern light pole plugs into a Perko Deck Connection Cat. No. 1189dp0CHR. $30
4. Anchor light at the top of the mast $24, Hella Masthead/All-Round Navigation Light, Anti-Glare, 4" light, HLL-995003001, 2 NM visibility.
5. Steamer/Deck Light Combo $55, Aqua Signal 25 Masthead Deck 12V/10W lgiht ASL-254047. NOT AN LED. Honestly this is the week link in my rewiring and lighting. It looks real good on the internet. It looks good in the package even though it's not LED Lights. Open up the package and I was still excited, then I looked at the Deck light bare halogen bulb, that my finger slid across. Yup NO, lens cover, bare bulb hanging out in the weather, naked and now messed up because I touched the bulb. You cannot touch a halogen bulb with bare hands or you screw up the coating, and they left it out in the open for anything to hit it. (I could not return it once it was opened) I am re-working this light as I am too cheap to let it go. Okay I like the Steamer light part and the case it all comes in and it will look real nice once I upgrade the deck light part.
Okay, I'm pulling out that cheap horribly designed (My opinion) Halogen bulb and even cheaper corresponding socket. True I only paid $54 of the whole rig but I fell jipped. I'm Replacing the halogen bits with a High Intensity LED Flood, Warm White, WATER PROOF, $19, from www.oznium.com. I hooked this excellently designed and executed, milled aluminum, housed, single LED blub to the 12V battery today and nearly blinded myself in full sunshine. My opinion on these was OMG!!! I need more of these, I don't know what I'm going to do with them yet but, oh yea, these are KILLER LIGHT BABY! Someone else on the forum found these and WOW mega-bang for the buck, you can submerge these things too.
I'm thinking one of these baby's is going under the hull, leading, top edge of the keel. Oh yea, under water lighting and I will be able to adjust the angle by raising and lowering the keel. May not work but I'm thinking hard on it.
6. Deck Electrical Connector for the Mast wiring. (The mast comes down so you need to be able to easily unplug the mast wires.) Sea-Dog Line Electrical Connector, Thermo Plastic 5 amp - 4 pin, part number 426234-1, www.sea-dog.com, $12. (This is a replacement for my old 2 pin chrome electrical connector when I only needed 2 wires before my anchor light was installed.) [Chrome connector = Old Perko, Black connector New Sea-Dog]
Now I've seen others using trailer hitch electrical connectors. After seeing those, If I had to do it again I would have used one of them. Love what I got, I just liked the look of the flush mount trailer ones better.
Okay, I think that is about it, congratulations if you made it through my lighting rant. I'm kind of proud at how well it came out. Again others have done better but I did cheap and I got lasting, 100% effective, results.
Oh also if you can get a motor with a generator/alternator/dynamo, that would be much more to my liking than just my little solar panel. It was really not designed for what I'm using it for, but dang if it has not been bullet proof for electrical generation, the tiny little thing.
Total Power Consumption, estimated.
+ New Mast light and improved LED Spot, less than 10W at 12 volts.
+ All the rest of the boat, less than 1 watt at 12 volts.
+ If using incandescent dome light in the cabin 3 watts at 12 volts.
So all told, everything turned on, lights burning bright 14 watts at 12 volts max.
Oh yea, I have a 1976 depth finder that works real good too but rarely use. I have no clue what it's power draw is but I bet it's big. Compass is old too but has only one small Red LED light in it, so I consider it part of that less than 1 Watt at 12 volts for all my LED's.
I'm also looking to add a Battery meter to add to my rig. One like you would find in an RV to check your batteries, you know, press a switch see how much power you have left. Let go the switch and it's back off again. I'm looking at the Sea-Dog SQL 423112 for $83. It can be hooked to two separate batteries and test each independent of the other just by toggling the switch the other way.
Thanks
Alan
P.S. Oh my interior dome light, I replaced the bulb with an LED $3, from Super Bright LED's Inc., St. Louis, Missouri 314-972-6200. My dome light has 2 lights Red for night use, moving in and out of the cabin and white for at anchor use. The switch lets you pick Red or White. I left the white incandescent bulb on switch one. I put the white LED on switch two. SO the Red LED has been removed. My Wife and son get a head ache from LED's and I do not. Most of the time I sail alone but do not wish to cause pain to the family when they do ride with me. I go all "You might be a Redneck if..." and change out the white incandescent bulb with the Red LED bulb when sailing at night without the family.
First off LED's will save you time and money even if you pay a little bit more up front for the LED. Besides, LED prices have come down just since I've been at it. Also the LED's pretty much last forever. No need to open things back up and change the bulb. The bulbs also don't care if there is vibration and very little heat given off by the bulbs so you don't cook anything.
I do not sell or am in anyway affiliated with the products I'm talking about in this posting. These are my opinions and experiences as I see them.
Okay I did all new lights on-board and new wiring as follows. Also note I'm no electrician, I expect others to further comment on what I have done. I always get better ideas from the folks on this forum and implement them where and when I can. I'm hoping if there is a Collective, YIKES, over what I have posted here, they will speak up and I will fix my errors on my boat.
I know this is about lights but I'm going to start with the Wiring.
1. 16 gauge 2 wire insulated
2. Solder every wiring connection. My Electrical insulated clips that I do use only there. (No automotive cheap squeeze clamps of doom for me or anywhere else on board. If I find an old one it's cut out and I solder the connection. Your mixing your metals otherwise and asking for a future corroded connection in my mind.) Solder it, seal it, and forget it.
3. Seal your wiring connections after soldering them. I use electrical tape and then heat shrink tubing over that. I've heard of a paint on electrical type wire connection sealer that I've yet to use but sounds good. Then I'd heat shrink over it too instead of using electrical tape.
4. Get a fuse box/circuit breaker to rout everything through. This one was brand new and can from the last owner, it's okay, I like it, I would have gone a little higher end myself but beggars can't be choosers and like I say it works just fine and I will use it for many, many , many more years to come. (Note the cheap crimp type connector on the left side of the circuit panel in the photo, no longer on my boat, thank you very much)
Okay, now Power.
1. Get the largest single deep cycle battery you can afford that will fit. An Electrician with a bad boat addiction told me this. One big battery is better than 2 or more smaller ones. Mine is a 12 volt Deep Cycle Sears Die Hard and again mine came new with the boat and I like it.
2. House the battery in a plastic housing with a lid that can breath. Strap the whole rig to the boat so it won't slide around on a good heel. Mine is located under the cockpit just aft of the keel winch... Other side of the plywood bulkhead from the winch, you don't want any salt water dripping on that puppy from the keel cable going to the winch!
3. I use a single small solar panel mounted inside the port rear window and it has provided 100% of my power since 2009. I would not have believed it but it's never failed me once. I'm going to get one just like it for the starboard side rear portal window. (Sunforce Solar 12 volt Battery Maintainer Item # 50012, 1-800-478-6435 www.sunforceproducts.com) $25
Okay here's the main part, the LED's themselves.
1. Bow light $32, Attwood 3500 Series Stainless Steel, 2NMvisibility, LED Red and Green. This had an identical foot print and look as the OEM Bow light. Even used the same screw holes to mount the new one.
2. Stern light $35, Attwood 5530 LED Anti-Glare All-Round Light, 2NM visibility, It is a removable post about 40" tall and I stow it below in the daytime.
3. The stern light pole plugs into a Perko Deck Connection Cat. No. 1189dp0CHR. $30
4. Anchor light at the top of the mast $24, Hella Masthead/All-Round Navigation Light, Anti-Glare, 4" light, HLL-995003001, 2 NM visibility.
5. Steamer/Deck Light Combo $55, Aqua Signal 25 Masthead Deck 12V/10W lgiht ASL-254047. NOT AN LED. Honestly this is the week link in my rewiring and lighting. It looks real good on the internet. It looks good in the package even though it's not LED Lights. Open up the package and I was still excited, then I looked at the Deck light bare halogen bulb, that my finger slid across. Yup NO, lens cover, bare bulb hanging out in the weather, naked and now messed up because I touched the bulb. You cannot touch a halogen bulb with bare hands or you screw up the coating, and they left it out in the open for anything to hit it. (I could not return it once it was opened) I am re-working this light as I am too cheap to let it go. Okay I like the Steamer light part and the case it all comes in and it will look real nice once I upgrade the deck light part.
Okay, I'm pulling out that cheap horribly designed (My opinion) Halogen bulb and even cheaper corresponding socket. True I only paid $54 of the whole rig but I fell jipped. I'm Replacing the halogen bits with a High Intensity LED Flood, Warm White, WATER PROOF, $19, from www.oznium.com. I hooked this excellently designed and executed, milled aluminum, housed, single LED blub to the 12V battery today and nearly blinded myself in full sunshine. My opinion on these was OMG!!! I need more of these, I don't know what I'm going to do with them yet but, oh yea, these are KILLER LIGHT BABY! Someone else on the forum found these and WOW mega-bang for the buck, you can submerge these things too.
I'm thinking one of these baby's is going under the hull, leading, top edge of the keel. Oh yea, under water lighting and I will be able to adjust the angle by raising and lowering the keel. May not work but I'm thinking hard on it.
6. Deck Electrical Connector for the Mast wiring. (The mast comes down so you need to be able to easily unplug the mast wires.) Sea-Dog Line Electrical Connector, Thermo Plastic 5 amp - 4 pin, part number 426234-1, www.sea-dog.com, $12. (This is a replacement for my old 2 pin chrome electrical connector when I only needed 2 wires before my anchor light was installed.) [Chrome connector = Old Perko, Black connector New Sea-Dog]
Now I've seen others using trailer hitch electrical connectors. After seeing those, If I had to do it again I would have used one of them. Love what I got, I just liked the look of the flush mount trailer ones better.
Okay, I think that is about it, congratulations if you made it through my lighting rant. I'm kind of proud at how well it came out. Again others have done better but I did cheap and I got lasting, 100% effective, results.
Oh also if you can get a motor with a generator/alternator/dynamo, that would be much more to my liking than just my little solar panel. It was really not designed for what I'm using it for, but dang if it has not been bullet proof for electrical generation, the tiny little thing.
Total Power Consumption, estimated.
+ New Mast light and improved LED Spot, less than 10W at 12 volts.
+ All the rest of the boat, less than 1 watt at 12 volts.
+ If using incandescent dome light in the cabin 3 watts at 12 volts.
So all told, everything turned on, lights burning bright 14 watts at 12 volts max.
Oh yea, I have a 1976 depth finder that works real good too but rarely use. I have no clue what it's power draw is but I bet it's big. Compass is old too but has only one small Red LED light in it, so I consider it part of that less than 1 Watt at 12 volts for all my LED's.
I'm also looking to add a Battery meter to add to my rig. One like you would find in an RV to check your batteries, you know, press a switch see how much power you have left. Let go the switch and it's back off again. I'm looking at the Sea-Dog SQL 423112 for $83. It can be hooked to two separate batteries and test each independent of the other just by toggling the switch the other way.
Thanks
Alan
P.S. Oh my interior dome light, I replaced the bulb with an LED $3, from Super Bright LED's Inc., St. Louis, Missouri 314-972-6200. My dome light has 2 lights Red for night use, moving in and out of the cabin and white for at anchor use. The switch lets you pick Red or White. I left the white incandescent bulb on switch one. I put the white LED on switch two. SO the Red LED has been removed. My Wife and son get a head ache from LED's and I do not. Most of the time I sail alone but do not wish to cause pain to the family when they do ride with me. I go all "You might be a Redneck if..." and change out the white incandescent bulb with the Red LED bulb when sailing at night without the family.
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Great run-down, Alan!
I upgraded my steamer and anchor lights with an LED festoon and bayonette bulb, respectively. Much, much brighter than the incandescents that were in them. Got the Festoon from : http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm , only $6.00! It is a 360 degree setup.
The anchor bulb is a ba9s that I got through Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045XJ4A0 Overkill, but less than $10.00.
I found the Ozniums while searching LEDs. I love them!! The rest of the lights on my mast (two spots on the top and four floods on the spreaders) are the Ozniums:
I upgraded my steamer and anchor lights with an LED festoon and bayonette bulb, respectively. Much, much brighter than the incandescents that were in them. Got the Festoon from : http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm , only $6.00! It is a 360 degree setup.
The anchor bulb is a ba9s that I got through Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045XJ4A0 Overkill, but less than $10.00.
I found the Ozniums while searching LEDs. I love them!! The rest of the lights on my mast (two spots on the top and four floods on the spreaders) are the Ozniums:
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
Yup, Mcrandall, your the one that turned me onto the Ozniums mini spotlights. Man does that thing toss out some light WOW. That is my light of choice from now on. 
Thanks
Alan
Thanks
Alan
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
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