How do you cleat your jib sheets?

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How do you cleat your jib sheets?

Postby ChrisC » Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:50 pm

Hi there. I'm getting my C-22 ready to go back in the water. I think I will replace the jib sheet, but I have a couple of questions about how they run and where they fasten.

The boat came with one sheet, about 38' long, that I fasten to the jib with a soft shackle system (This is an improvement on the previous owners system). This has worked all right, leading each side of the sheet back to the block on the toe rail and then to the winch. Obviously, at 19 feet per side there isn't enough length to go through the cheek block on the combing. But how useful or necessary is it to lead the sheet through the cheek block?

Do I really have to buy 80 feet of rope to meet spec (40' per side)?

By going through this extra block the sheet cuts slightly across the forward end of the cockpit and interferes and makes a comfortable sitting spot less than ideal, even though it is on the leeward side. How have you dealt with this?

My other question is where do you cleat the jib sheet after passing around the winch? There is a clam cleat on each side of the companionway near the winch, which I guess could work. But this seems like poor design and fairly awkward.

Last season, we ran this sheet through this cam cleat after of the winch. Photo:

I don't think this is standard equipment for the C-22 (maybe it was a spinnaker?), but this still is not that easy or ideal. Under tension it's difficult to settle the rope into the cleat as it is flush with the combing.

So, what do you do? And how well does it work?

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." --Wind in the Willows

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Postby CaptainScott » Mon Jun 05, 2017 6:47 am

Good morning!

In short, you should have a pair of snatch blocks you can clip to the toe rail of your C22, 1 for each side. You can move them for and aft as necessary per sail size however they are not really meant to be changed under spirited sailing conditions!

Run the jib sheet outside of all life lines and shrouds, to the snatchblock on the toe rail, back up to the winch, and terminate at a cleat.

For future reference we have all the documents including rigging instructions for the C22 here: ... ocList.php

Just scroll down to the C22 and you will see many documents!


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Postby jsa » Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:49 am

Hi there! I'm pretty new to the Chrysler, but I'll share my 2 cents and set-up if it helps.

To answer your question, I think running the sheet through the cheek block on the coaming is necessary. This is especially true in high wind. I would think you need something behind the winch to gain some purchase to handle the load on the jib.

Now, you could just run the snatch block aft of the winch, but I imagine this would cause some issues with sail shape. With the block that far aft, I think the foot of the sail would tighten long before the leech and it would really open the sail up.

You could place the snatch block forward of the winch to gain the desired sail shape, but then you loose all of your purchase. Other than the winch, you've lost your mechanical advantage.

With the snatch block and cheek block you get the best of both worlds.

My boat currently cleats just behind the winch on the cabin with a clam cleat. I want to upgrade them to cam cleats, as the line tends to slip through the clam cleat in high winds.

Here is a video of me messing about on the boat. You can more or less see how the jib sheet runs to the turning block on the coaming. I was set up for self steering here, but normally it would have gone around that cheek block, to the winch, and then clean in the clam cleat.

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Postby ChrisC » Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:53 am

Hi Jsa. Thanks for your input. I can see where the extra purchase could help, but oddly I've never sailed a boat that has such a set up. Every boat, and I've sailed up to 38 footers, have a block on the toe rail area and then directly to the winch. On the C-22 I haven't yet needed to use the crank handle to trim the jib. Three turns around the winch seems adequate. But I have yet to use the genoa on this boat, and that could change the requirement.

I suppose the clam cleat is the obvious fastening point, though I don't like it. And one of mine is broken. The cam cleat on the combing is a good location, just could be better.
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." --Wind in the Willows

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