Towing

J. Austin · Post by **J. Austin** » Thu Nov 19, 2009 5:48 pm

Does anyone know the towing weight of our beloved c-22's (tailer included)?

I need to find a proper tow vehicle.

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:17 am

My hubby says about 4500lbs.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:28 am

I would say that is pretty close depending on what type of trailer you have, steel or aluminum. A lot of vehicles will be rated for it but don't be fooled into something lighter than the what your pulling, in a hard braking situation the heavier vehicle will take point

.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:33 am

Banshi, excellent point - when my commuter car was in the shop I was given a tow package Tahoe to drive. Since I was looking for a tow vehicle, and it specs put it in range of the C26, I hooked up and pulled her around the block to get a feel. HA, that poor thing grunted all the way around trying to tote that beast. Can't imagine getting in a bind with that combo, wouldn't have been pretty...just cause the specs quote it don't make it so.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:06 am

j42goose wrote:Does anyone know the towing weight of our beloved c-22's (tailer included)?

I need to find a proper tow vehicle.

I've never confirmed thes specs but here is what I go by:
The boat is around 3K-3.2K. I allow 1K for trailer, motor, and accessorys you will inevitably load her up with.

Some very interesting things to consider when getting a tow vehicle:
Automatics generally rate better for towing than sticks.
A tranny cooler is a must. If you get a rig without, add one.
Variable assist rear springs can really help.
A trailer with surge brakes is far superior than no brakes at all and hydrolic are even better!

Rear end gear ratio can make or brake your towing experience.
About the rear end, I have a Ford Explorer rated to tow these 22's with a class three hitch. She tows fine but feels like a sled. Sluggish and zero extra power. 3.08 rear end. I have a Ford F150 with a similar sized motor, class 3 hitch and 3.55 rear end. Just the feel of towing is much better.

Also remember, you should never ever hurry when towing. Accellerate slowly and decellerate slowly. That means you plan well ahead every move. If you try and accellerate rapidly while towing you will greatly decreas transmission life. Fuel economy and motor stress also suffer.

Generally turn off overdrive when towing.

Hope this helps!
Scott

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:53 am

A lot of good points above about what to look for in a tow vehicle.
Personally I have a 97 Ford Econoline Waldock conversion van, and I live it!
5.7 V8, factory towing package, so it's got all the fluid coolers and the different rear end. Also being a conversion van it has the nice stuff inside (tv/vcr nice seats with lots of leg room) to keep your crew happy on the longer trips.
I have used it to tow my camper from coast to coast, border to border and it just thrived hauling and towing on the open road.

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:50 am

69Shark wrote:
j42goose wrote:Does anyone know the towing weight of our beloved c-22's (tailer included)?

I need to find a proper tow vehicle.

Also remember, you should never ever hurry when towing. Accellerate slowly and decellerate slowly. That means you plan well ahead every move. If you try and accellerate rapidly while towing you will greatly decreas transmission life. Fuel economy and motor stress also suffer.

Generally turn off overdrive when towing.

Hope this helps!
Scott

Excellent point, especially since most other people on the road are idiots. I can't beleive the number of times someone has made a quick lane change in front of us , seeing that we are a van towing a big honking sailboat !!!! Abrubt application of barkes is not what you want to be doing. Now mind you we only tow it 2x a year to and from the moorring but it can have a high sphincter factor.

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:15 am

Can't help on the 22, but...

My C26 is alleged to be 5000#.

I mentally add #1500 for engine, sails, ground tackle, electrical, fuel/water, galley gear, clothing, etc. The fact that I float a couple of inches lower than any other C26 at the dock suggests this is pretty close.

God knows what the borrowed trailer weighs... it's a big, burly mother, and I'm guessing maybe 1500#.

So my guestimated all up weight is around 8000.

I tow with a 2006 F150 SuperCab (the two suicide doors, not the 4 door), 6.5' bed, 5.4L, 4x4, big tranny cooler, 3.73s w/ limited slip rear, 4 wheel discs. Rated towing max is 9300#. I added a Class IV hitch myself, and since the trailer has surge brakes I tow without a load equalizer. This is a reasonable combination, but I'd really not want to try with the extra 1000#. I'm considering adjustable shocks, maybe air shocks, so I can dial it in better under load.

For this setup, tongue weight is critical, as are trailer brakes. When I'm pulling back from the coast, there are several significant hills -- ok, mountains. On those, I get down to maybe 40 mph with my foot on the floor. On the other hand, I'm passing some lightly loaded or empty tractor/trailers, so it's a pretty steep grade. As long as the tongue weight and brakes are right, no worries on the descents, and the flats are easy.

Point of all this being, you probably should back 15% to 20% off of the vehicle's tow rating, depending upon where you live and how you tow. By Scott's calcs, sounds like the minimum tow rating you'd want is around 5000#.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:58 am

Banshi, for those of us with 26's your ascertation that the vehicle must weigh more than the loaded trailer ridiculous. They just don't make consumer trucks that heavy.

If your trailer has brakes the weight of the tow vehicle is much less important. The truck brakes stop the truck, the trailer brakes stop the trailer. Of course you should pay attention to the tow rating since it includes torque (at the wheels), transmission strength, frame integrity, etc.

If anyone needs them, I have towing guides that list tow ratings of all vehicles with various equipment configurations for the years 99 - 08. I'm not sure you can still find the older ones on the net.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:30 pm

The only two times EE has been towed was with a 97 Ford F350 Dually Diesel, and a 17' dually rental truck.

Hardly noticed she was back there

J. Austin · Post by **J. Austin** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:17 pm

OMG, Thanks to all for all of the this great advice.

I am very luck to have gotten my boat with a steel trailer
that came with two brand new wheel cylnders (with internal brakes)
and a brand new power brake hitch. All I need to do is install it, and come up with an ingenious dissconnect system becase the trailer is telescoping.

I would love a copyof those trailer specs Tom.

Anymore advice is always welcome.

mariner · Post by **mariner** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:13 pm

This is the info that is on the original 1976 trailer that the boat came with direct from Chrysler, hope this helps.

Chrysler20%26 · Post by **Chrysler20%26** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:13 am

Looking at the photo that (mariner) posted. It is the same on my C-20, the trailer is the same for C-20 & C-22 ( I Think )

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 5:26 am

Wow, 3000# cap trailer for a boat spec'd at 3000# is not much margin for gear. Load range D tires would help, although that wouldn't affect the overall design capacity of the trailer -- brakes, suspension, frame strength.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:14 pm

"for those of us with 26's your ascertation that the vehicle must weigh more than the loaded trailer ridiculous. They just don't make consumer trucks that heavy."

I was referring specifically to the 22 and best case (safest) scenario

My "consumer" truck weighs 8000#'s empty, whats a 26 weigh ?(it gets 23 mpg mixed as well:)). Once the weight goes 5000 you need to have breaks on the trailer, most full size 1/2 ton trucks weigh 4000+. I have not seen many trailers for boats the size of a 22 with breaks but that would of course make a difference. Still breaks or no breaks anything less than a full sized truck is just asking for trouble.

My trailer was rated 3500 and that is part of the reason I added a second axle.

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